Hot, heavy air redolent of soil and work, the summer in the midwest of steadiness- steady work, steady breezes, a pace slow and consistent. And at the end of the day, when the work is done, there's ice cream. Birdsall's has been around for more than a half century. For farmers and the children of farmers it is an oasis. For me, it is a family reunion and grandmas house, something to do after a day in the sun- a destination within a destination.