Bird Land is a yakitori shop that shares the same subway basement space with two other famous restaurants: fifth-generation Nodaiwa and Sukiyabashi Jiro—yes, that Jiro. There is a brigade of staff behind the counter and a master who oversees orders like the conductor of an orchestra. Bits of chicken meat and organs skewered and grilled can be a casual meal under the train tracks, but at Bird Land it is elevated to haute cuisine. Pours from a well-curated wine list, including Austrian Grüner Veltliner and Australian shiraz, are served in Riedel glassware. The “course menu” is highly recommended: It starts with chicken liver paté and the classic chicken and egg over rice, oyakodon, along with the signature skewers.