Behring is a triumph of perseverance: An artists’ collective took over a hulking former chocolate factory in 2005, in a district near the city harbor. Threatened with eviction from the very beginning, the group managed not just to stay put, but to become a major name on the Carioca cultural scene. The first Saturday of every month, the collective opens its ateliers to the public, sharing a most innovative mix of spaces for architects, fashion and furniture designers, plus scads of visual artists. You’ll also find emerging chefs’ pop-up bistros and a terrace that even has room for a ceramics workshop. A monthly visit to the Behring has become a smart Rio date.