Bascarcija, the Ottoman center of Sarajevo, is a lot like the markets of Istanbul. Or, it's a lot like what the markets of Istanbul would be like if they took a handful of Valium and relaxed. Nobody bustles, and nobody seems to be in a hurry. A stroll downtown can take hours, and ordering a cup of coffee can take all afternoon. So I was a bit stunned when my friend offered to take me to a cevabdzinica-Bosnia's version of a fast food restaurant for cevapi, the "unofficial national dish" of Bosnia.
We made our way to Zeljo's, the best-known cevabdzinica in Sarajevo. We sat down on the long wooden benches that lined the street in front of the restaurant and everyone ordered a large portion. The waitress brought over a plate with five little grilled sausages covered in sliced onion, lying on perfectly warmed pita, with a tiny dish of yogurt. It looked so simple, yet it is so tasty.
We spent three hours in the restaurant. That's Bosnian-style fast food.