Hidden away on the 9th floor of an unassuming building near the Apple Store in Ginza is one of Tokyo’s best-kept secrets of the Italian osteria variety—even the name is hard to remember (at least for me, but that’s not unusual). Upon disembarking from the elevator and entering the front door, you are greeted by the welcoming staff, who will inquire whether you prefer to dine or to drink. As tempted as you may be to head into the dining room and sit down to an admittedly tasty full-blown Italian meal, the real reason you’re here for is the standing bar. So just hang your coat on the large coat rack in the corner, walk over to one of the bar tables, and grab some elbow space as you ponder what to order from the 78 different types of Italian wines by the glass listed on the blackboard over the service counter. Once you’ve got your glass topped up and in hand, mosey on over to the glass showcase next to the counter and pick and choose from any one of about 20 kinds of apertivo (Italian-style tapas) to snack on while you ponder what sort of fermented grape liquid to order next. And at each serving of wine averaging around 450 yen and a big plate of assorted appetizers around 2-300 yen, you’ll be pleasantly tipsy and full before you know it, as will your wallet with all the money you didn’t spend getting there.