Bars like Gino's in the Dorsoduro neighborhood of Venice are the kind of Italian institutions that I hope never go away. It's what you might call an Italian sports bar, with daily newspapers hanging about and a loyal local following that can be seen here morning, noon, and night. The coffee is good, and the toasted cheese sandwiches are tasty. It's not hard to spot the owner, Gino. He's in charge of the coffee machine, and an extremely jolly fellow—possibly the biggest Italian man I've ever seen. Go in the morning if you really want a sense of why locals love this place. Saucers are clinking, the till is ringing nonstop, and there's an exchange of loud pleasantries that seems to ebb and flow throughout the day.