On a wet, rather chilly day in April, we drove up into the Lunigiana hills in the extreme north western corner of Tuscany and found this wonderful Bed & Breakfast in Quarazzana, an ancient, half derelict hamlet which is home to 12 souls, a few cats and dogs and two donkeys. Owners Ilaria and Stefano are warm and welcoming hosts offering four delightful bedrooms, wonderful breakfasts and dinner on request. We stayed in the suite where there was a fire burning in the antique stove when we arrived. This place is miles from anywhere and set in a landscape of chestnut woods and hills: on a clear day you can (almost) see forever. Come here if you want true peace and quiet, but if you do feel like some sightseeing, the coastal towns of Lerici, Portovenere and the Cinque Terre are not far away.