In Switzerland, the closer you get to France, the better and more buttery the cuisine gets. This holds especially true for the old-school French comfort food you’ll find in Lavaux, the necklace of UNESCO-listed wine villages dangling on a vine-covered mountain on the shores of Lac Léman. Its auberges are by turns cozy and costly, but ultimately worth it—especially Auberge du Raisin, located in the chocolate-box town of Cully. The dining room's parquet ceiling is marinated in decades of fondue steam; smells from aged steaks being charred over open flames and flambés prepared tableside by suited waiters elicit Proustian responses from those who remember French cuisine before the 1980s. Most dishes are highlighted by rich sauces: Morels and white asparagus tips soak together in a mornay sauce; lake perch medallions are coated in a silky, truffled beurre blanc; and haystack-like heaps of crispy pommes frites help mop up any extra.