ATHIRI RESTAURANT

Winner of a Michelin Bib Gourmand, this local institution excels at highly inventive seasonal Greek dishes—salt cod donuts with sautéed greens, thyme-crusted lamb with apricot puree, cockerel confit with beet salad and apple sauce. Set in a lush garden in Keramikos, an edgy neighborhood on the cusp of gentrification, it’s wonderfully relaxed and reasonably priced.