Ninety minutes northeast of Zurich are the dueling cantons of Appenzell—one predominantly Protestant and the other mostly Catholic. Both are known for their melancholy yodeling, beer, and creamy Appenzeller cheese. In the village of Stein, make a beeline to the working Schaukäserei (which means "show-dairy") cooperative, cheese museum, and restaurant that plates up some of the region’s tastiest cheese dishes. Highlights include a crispy cordon bleu stuffed with ham and gooey Appenzeller Surchoix cheese, a silky Käserahmsuppe (a creamy cheese soup lighter than fondue), fork-tender Käsekuchen (cheese pie), and Chäshörnli, Alpine macaroni and cheese, which comes topped with crunchy fried onions and paired with a cool puddle of applesauce. There’s also a shop stocked with local butter, milk, shrink-wrapped meats, and cheeses.