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Admiralgade 26—the name is also the address—defies easy definition. It’s double-height, light-filled room is furnished with classic piece of mid-century modern Danish furniture but the menu roams around the world: bouillabaisse, gazpacho, cauliflower curry with salmon. It’s open from 8 o’clock for breakfast, the sort of place you can pop in to browse the newspaper (or browse the restaurant’s own in-house newspaper) over a bowl of oatmeal brülee, but is also elegant enough for a celebratory dinner for two… except on Mondays when it’s movie night, when you can enjoy dinner and watch a film projected onto the wall. It is, in short, a perfect neighborhood restaurant.