If you live in Tromso, the northernmost city in the world, you work in either the oil or the fishing industries. Since an afternoon out drilling for oil didn't seem much fun, my sister and I made our fishing debut out on the Signe I, a 100-year-old fishing boat which takes around a dozen or so people out on its daily voyage. Having never held a rod before, neither of us expected to catch much, especially since there were some Russians on board who had a distinctively expert swagger. Call it beginner's luck, then: I had barely cast off when I got a bite. My sister was next—and the males on deck looked on with no little disappointment as the two female novices hauled in 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 little fishies, and they struggled to net a single one. Our skipper, Captain Ryvold, then cooked up our catch in sea water and we all tucked in to the most deliciously fresh fish I will ever eat in my life. I couldn't recommend the experience more—the Ryvolds also rent out rooms in a holiday home a 20-minute walk from town.