La Porte 12
The amuse-bouche arrives, I look at my date and I sigh, ‘It’s like San Sebastien...” It is no accident chef Vincent Crépel’s cuisine evokes the most inventive kitchens of the day. An adventurer from St Jean de Luz, he worked in the 3 star Basque auberge Arzak as a young chef. Many years and several kitchens later, he has taken an abandoned lingerie atelier and corseted it into an urban delight. A fixed menu featuring small dishes, Crépel’s cuisine hops on the terroir wagon and takes it on a modern spin. The plate of Jersualem artichoke is rich and earthy, a lace of lard dresses a clover clad egg yolk with a salsify base. A perfectly choreographed crew works attentively in a kitchen smaller than the bra cups once stitched here, as guests are served by a relaxed, welcoming staff. A great address to discover a new chef on the local scene.
By Sylvia Sabes, AFAR Local Expert
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12 Rue des Messageries, 75010 Paris, France