Insider's Madrid
Some favorite places gleaned from seven years living in Spain's crazy cool capital.
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Haute cheese
Cheese Bar is the offshoot of Poncelet, arguably Madrid’s best cheese shop (Calle Argensola, 27). Opened in 2010, the airy restaurant features a green wall, an upstairs library, two bars, and, of course, the best cheeses in the city, both domestic...
Culture Without the Crowds
If the thought of touring the Prado or the Royal Palace with thousands of other people is just too much, check out one of Madrid's smaller museums. Two that have recently reopened after renovations are the Museo Cerralbo, an opulent house-museum...
To Really Know Madrid, Walk Its Barrios
Madrid may be famous for its museums and palaces, but the best way to really get to know the city is to walk its neighborhoods. No trip to Madrid is complete without going back in time in historic Barrio de las Letras, living the high life in posh...
Socialist cod
Casa Labra is one of those Madrid bars that has been around forever– or since 1860 anyway. It's famous for two things: for being the place where Spain's PSOE socialist party was founded in 1879, and for its bacalao, or salt cod.
If you go, you'll...
Vintage Design in Madrid
Whenever I visit El Rastro, Madrid's sprawling Sunday flea market, I always make sure to stop by LA Studio. The drool-worthy vintage furniture—from art deco cabinets to mid-century sofas—is a beautiful counterpoint to the trash-or-treasure...
Madrid for Cinephiles
Cine Doré is home to the Filmoteca Española—the Spanish Film Library—and is one of Madrid's oldest cinemas. Film cycles shown on the restored 1920s main screen range from obscure Franco-era Spanish movies, to Kurosama retrospectives, to new...
Get high to cool off
In the height of summer, the rooftop pool at the Roommate Óscar hotel in Chueca feels miles away from the swelter of Madrid’s streets. Plus it has great views of Madrid's most prominent landmarks. For weekends you’ll want to book ahead, but...
Boutique Madrid
A great boutique option in the heart of Madrid's bohemian Malasaña district, Hotel Abalú has 16 mod, artsy rooms, each one different. A few more apartment-style suites are across the street. In-room spa services are available and higher room...
Eat croquettes with Bono
U2 ate here! And there are enough newspaper articles plastered on the walls of Casa Julio to prove it. Most people come for the famous croquettes--with flavors like blood sausage; wild mushrooms and leeks; or spinach, raisins and...
Get Your Alpargatas Here!
Casa Hernanz is Madrid’s premier purveyor of alpargatas, the ubiquitous espadrilles Spaniards can’t get enough of in the summer. With cloth uppers and rope soles, these definitely aren’t winter shoes. In fact, one drop of water and they’re pretty...
Un Vermú, Por Favor
Vermouth on tap ("vermú del grifo") is a day-drinking favorite and a staple of Madrid's classic bars. Often served over ice with a slice of lemon, it's a little spicy, a little sweet, not too dry, and perfect for a lazy afternoon.
One of the places...
Madrid's most enormous sandwich
Bar Melos, in Madrid's Lavapiés district, is consistently packed with locals hungry for tapas from Galicia, Spain's northwestern corner. On the menu: roasted padrón peppers, creamy tetilla-cheese croquettes and albariño wine, served Galician-style...

