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The Dominican Republic ranks at the top of the global ranking in cocoa production and export. In 2009 it exported over 62,000 tons of cocoa mainly to the United States and Europe. Try the local cocoa tea made from shaving cocoa balls!
Patrick Bennett
AFAR Ambassador
AFAR Ambassadors are in-the-know bloggers who have a passion for experiential travel.
New York, New York, United States
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Unlike most people who arrive at the property fresh off a plane and short cab ride, I showed up after spending an hour searching for waterfalls on horseback in the Samana wilderness. Basically, I was tired, smelly, dirty… And by no definition sublime. The moment I walked into the shady, chic reception area, everything changed. I was immediately relieved of my bulky, mud-splattered belongings by practiced staff and my newly emptied hands were then wrapped around a fresh coconut. At first, you might think the stylish surroundings would clash with such local, earthen niceties, but you’d be wrong. Sublime makes an art out of weaving local and luxury together in almost every aspect of their experience. In the three-story main building, 50 one- and two-bedroom Suites (16 for guests, the rest privately owned) form an arc around the property’s centerpiece: a sheltered and soothing pool area that’s a mix of interconnecting canals, larger pools for swimming, beds wrapped in billowing fabrics, grassy expanses and simple walking paths. This place is truly Sublime!
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The Dominican Republic is home to some of the Caribbean’s best world class surf breaks. The North, East and South coasts of the Dominican Republic all experience different swell and seasonal surfing conditions. The North coast, bordering on the Atlantic Ocean, is the most consistent year-round surf, but the absolute best conditions are typically from September to the end of March. This shot was taken at Encuentro Surf Beach a little west of Cabarete and home to the best breaks in the area.
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A motoconcho is a taxi “motorcycle” (sometimes closer to a moped) in the Dominican Republic. A quick ride across town should cost around 50 pesos or $1.50 US. Motoconchos are definitely a popular and economical way for locals to get around. Just be extra, extra careful should you hire your own.
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The main feature is a densely clustered expanse of conical hills. Peculiarly, they’re almost all the same size and height — roughly between 660-1000ft tall. These epic mounds stretch for 51 miles east to west and push inland for 16 miles! Sporting colorful names like Cayo de los Pájaros (Key of the Birds), El Naranjo Arriba (“The Orange Top”) and Boca del Infierno (“The Mouth of Hell”), Los Haitises is unlike anything else you'll find in the Caribbean and well worth a speedboat ride from nearby Samana into its depths.
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Listed as a World Heritage Site by Unesco, the historic Hostal Nicolás De Ovando is the original home of the town's founder, Governor Nicolas de Ovando. Located on the famous Calle Las Damas (the first paved road of the New World), Señor Ovando's former residence has been transformed into a 5-star hotel with swimming pool, restaurant, bar, gym center, free WIFI and parking.
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Calle Las Damas is the oldest paved street in the new world with construction beginning in 1502. Originally named Calle de la Forteleza, or Street of the Fort, it makes a straight line above the shores of the Rio Ozama from the Fortaleza Ozama to the Alcazar de Colon. Note that the paving stones aren't original. The originals were taken from the street and used as ballast for ships centuries ago.
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The oldest church in the “New World”, Catedral Primada de America, can be found in the heart of the oldest European city in the Americas: La Zona Colonial, Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. Its foundation stone was laid by Diego Columbus (Christopher‘s firstborn son) in 1510. It was completed in 1540.
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Pressed into the leeward side of Tobago between the sea and the steep rise up to the island’s mountainous Main Ridge spine, the tiny village of Castara offers intrepid travelers the essential aspects of the uncommon Caribbean. On the day we visited, the mountains at our back were lush and green, the small rivers that encircle the small village giving it its name (Castara means ”falling water’) were sparkling in the sun. Not a cloud was in the sky, sea birds circled overhead, and majestic palms swayed in the trade winds. No, it’s not a manicured beach with an army of workers that descend upon it at dawn to primp it for a day of tourists. Instead Castara is an unexpected, authentic, natural beauty the likes of which you’d be hard pressed to find almost anywhere else.
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Tucked away on a side street off the main drag of Cabarete, Claro offers the best breakfast in town. As a bonus, besides tasting great, they also sport names guaranteed to start your day off right. Feeling like a "My Way or the Highway"? How about a "Hungry Surfer", "Green Goddess", or as I had on my last visit, a "Master of the Ocean?" (Named after the areas annual water sports event.) Any colorful name you choose, you're bound to greet the day energized!
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Just look at that grin! That doesn't just happen for no reason. Ok sure, maybe the pre-dinner rums may have a little to do with it, but mostly that beaming demeanor is thanks to some killer local Dominican Republic cuisine in the form of BBQ chicken, rice & peas, yucca, plantains and salad. Located just off the main road across from Ocean Dream in the heart of Cabarete, Parrilla Luis is a local spot with a lot to love!
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Perched above El Recon Beach, Kiosco is a lazy day waiting to happen. Your only lesson may be on the three B's: Brugal, Barcello, and Bermudez. All ron (rum) worth whiling away the hours with. Don't forget to order up a little pollo a la planca (grilled chicken) or other local staple while you're there before wandering down to the beach for a swim.
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Before you even enter the small road-side shop, you begin to get an idea that this place isn’t like your average Dunkin Donuts back home. Right up front is a huge sign with their list of “Daily Practices.” It starts with some basics of the product: "All fruits and vegetables are washed in purified water. We buy local, organic coffee." Indeed, in every cup of coffee they serve, you’ll find organic, shade-grown, hand-picked, freshly-roasted, fair-trade Dominican Republic coffee. This stuff is the real deal. And just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, I should let you know they also produce cocoa the same way — organically grown in the foothills of Rio San Juan by a new all women’s cooperative of cocoa growers to ensure sustainability.
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Located in the gritty urban sprawl of the Otrobanda side of Willemstad, a few blocks back of the St. Annabaai waterway, where lies the famous Floating Bridge, Netto Bar is a small, hole-in-the-wall place with a decidedly local flare. Netto Bar has been serving up Green Rum (and an assortment of beers and other stiff drinks) for locals and tourists beginning at 8am (noon on Sundays) every day since 1954. The place stays open til 9pm, though hours are extended when the place is busy.
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Curacao’s Floating Market is one of those wonderful Caribbean misnomers in that the market itself doesn’t really float at all. (Well, most of it anyway.) As you can see, the stalls brimming with produce are all quite safely ensconced on terra firma along the Sha. Caprileskade on the Punda side of Willemstad.
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There are lots of great museums and historical attractions in Curacao, but none harbor near as many secrets nor as many tasty goodies as this place. You’re looking at the famed Chobolobo Mansion on the grounds of the even more famed Curacao of Curacao Liqueur Factory in the capital city of Willemstad. This is the Mecca for one of the most unlikely and longest-running success stories in the annals of Caribbean alcohol… Just don’t go there expecting you’ll hear the whole story…
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There’s a pretty neat little collection of seafaring artifacts there, along with scale models of old vessels, classic photos, charts and documents highlighting more than 500 years of the island’s maritime history, including, of course, the era of slavery.
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The building itself dates to 1737, when the first of what would turn out to be several homes was built on this spot. Over the years, many different families made memories here. In the late-1960′s it was sold to a local historical preservation group that restored and maintained the old building during the 70′s and 80′s. Finally, in 2001, the current owners came along, bringing with them the De Gouverneur name and restaurant concept, which ranks among the best in all of Curacao. Amazingly, they stock 50 different rums! And not just any rums either. The who’s who list includes Mount Gay Extra Old, Brugal Añejo, Ron Zacapa XO and Solera 23, Pampero Aniversario, Appleton Estate 12 Year Old, Flor de Caña four, seven and 18 Year Old, and even Angostura 1824! This is easily the very best selection of rum on Curacao.
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No, your eyes do not deceive you. There, perched along the side of a nondescript mound in an otherwise barren landscape of mud and varying degrees of underbrush are nine whitewashed letters purposely arrayed to mimic the nine whitewashed letters in the famed Hollywood sign out in Tinsel Town. This, however, is Curacao. Sint Willibrordus, Curacao to be exact.
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Made from Trinitario raised from seed, to tree, to pod, to bean all in the same estate, the sweets from the Tobago Cocoa Estate are unlike any you'll sample anywhere else in the world. Get shown around the grounds, learn the ins and outs of single estate chocolate, sample a taste with a rum pairing, then take home a treat in the form of bars or my favorite cocoa balls used to make traditional West Indian cocoa tea!
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Nestled next to the tourist favorite Jemma's Treehouse Restaurant in the northern town of Speyside is a nondescript, orange, beachside spot with a short pitch on its only sign: OPEN 4 LUNCH For my money, this is the spot to hit in Speyside for authentic down island eats like rice and peas, stew chicken, etc. plus a pretty sweet view of bay.
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The great thing about life on a small island is that there are often singular locations for specific needs and this place is THE place for grabbing the freshest meat on Tobago. Run by a couple proper old ladies who spend the day in an old beach chair handing out choice cuts, just a visit to say 'hi' is worth it. So swing by for any cuts you could possibly want, then fire up your bbq for a special DIY taste of Tobago.
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Need a quick bite moments after landing on Tobago? You could do a lot worse than stopping at these guys selling doubles (a local Indian influenced, curry filled street food) from the back of their car at the intersection leading to Pigeon Point.
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I have to admit, I didn't want to like this place. I used to come to this location (previously known as Smokey's) for years to eat great local food and enjoy a laid back vibe... While getting gas, of course. But then the previous West Indian owner moved away to Antigua only to be replaced by a statesider. I thought my days of liming at the solitude gas station with so many other locals and eating great West Indian fare were over. I couldn't have been more wrong. I'd say the new owner has gone out of his way to make Ziggy's an active and positive member of the local community, but everything he's done just has this natural feel to it. Like he's not even trying, he just IS a part of the community. Local foods like roti, johnny cake, and more still find their home at Ziggy's. Plus now they're accompanied by frequent charity events, eating contests, concerts, and even dance competitions... All at an awesome gas station. It may seem odd to suggest stopping by a gas station, but you'd be missing a great new addition to Crucian life without a visit to this libation station.
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A big part of the Caribbean experience is routine. The sun rises and sets around the same time everyday, the temperatures don't vary much from day to day, and the wind generally blows in the same direction. So it should be no wonder that routine would govern islanders' lives and Sunday on St. Croix is the quintessential example. The first half the day varies slightly from person to person: breakfast, maybe church, etc. But before long, it's west to Sandy Point. Drinking and fun goes until 4 when park rangers clear the beach, then it's a mass magration to one of two places: Domino Club (home of the beer drinking pig and some killer mamajuana) or Rainbow Beach. For me, it's usually Rainbow. Great food, great drinks, all your old (and new) friends, plus you get to extend the boozy beach lime into the wee hours of the night.
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Being so close to Puerto Rico, St. Croix has become a haven for some of the best Puerto Rican food I've ever had and some of the best can be found at the perfectly laid back Villa Morales. Go for the food, stay for the vibe, characters, old talk and rum and cokes!
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This is it. The moment you arrive on-island, do not pass go, do not collect $200 — just get yourself to the La Reine Chicken Shack to immediately immerse yourself in the uniquely local St. Croix vibe. No, this is not haute cuisine, this isn't even a nice looking place, but what it is is an institution sporting the best BBQ chicken on island. Everyone eats here from senators to sanitation workers and all walks of life in between. On Sunday's you can even expect some roast pork added to the menu. Whatever you order, you won't go wrong pairing your styrofoam wrapped meal with a nice rum & Coke!
