FR/AME: Franco-Californian Dining With a View
Of the many luxuries with which Paris is blessed, space isn't one of them. And this is especially true of Parisian restaurants, many of which struggle to find suitable kitchen space let alone dining rooms that can accommodate a crowd. But on the west side of town, with an unrivaled view of beacon Eiffel, a commodious dining room is a precious and accessible new commodity. That and new Americana cooking. At FR/AME, whose name is a nod to both France and America, the focus is on flavors and recipes inspired by California with a local twist. Part of that French flair involves locally sourced and seasonal produce (some of which are grown on-site in the building's rooftop garden) and a robust wine program helmed by Olivier Poussier, one of the world's most revered sommelier. Presiding over the kitchen is American chef American Wigger who perfected the principles of Franco-Californian cuisine while working under the tutelage of French chef Pascal Olhats in Newport Beach. From fish tacos and gruyère burgers to modern coq au vin and fresh garden salads, chef Wigger places a premium on technique and ingredients all while catering to French tastes (which, in some cases, translates to dialing down the spice). And in the process, does an excellent job of transporting the diner west, palm trees and all.