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David Farley

AFAR Contributing Writer

New York, New York, United States

www.dfarley.com

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Lynott's Pub

Mayo
Drink
Lynott's Pub, Mayo, Ireland
The Coziest Pub in Ireland
"Want to go to the coziest pub in Ireland?" the waiter of the hotel restaurant I was eating at said when I asked where there was a good place to get a drink on Achill Island, located in County Mayo on the west coast of Ireland. He'd said three of my favorite words in one sentence: "cozy," "pub," and "Ireland." I was sold. Soon enough my traveling companion and I were hoisting pints of black, foamy Guinness by the fireplace in Lynott's an ancient stone pub with four tables. The night I turned up, there was a traditional music session happening and there were most musicians than patrons. Cozy indeed.
The Coziest Pub in Ireland

St. Dymphna Cemetery, Achill Island

Mayo
Do
St. Dymphna Cemetery, Achill Island, Mayo, Ireland
On the Island with St. Dymphna
St. Dymphna, a seventh-century peasant who was eventually canonized, is said to have founded the church that this atmospheric cemetery is centered around. Dymphna is the patron saint of mental and nervous disorders and if you're uptight or have anxiety, Achill will definitely put you at ease. After all, this aesthetically pleasing cemetery isn't the only reason to come to Achill Island, Ireland's largest island, located in County Mayo on the country's western shores. There's a ghostly deserted village, a 26-mile bike trail that leads you to the island (the Great Western Greenway, starting in the town of Westport) and people so friendly you'll wonder what is in the water (or the Guinness). But the main reason to come to Achill are for the spectacular views. Drive around the periphery of the island—as I recently did—and prepare to be shocked and awed by some of the most stunning scenery your eyes will encounter while in Ireland. You'll pray to St. Dymphna that luck and fortune will bring you back here some day.
On the Island with St. Dymphna

Achill Island, Co. Mayo, Ireland.

Mayo
Do
Achill Island, Co. Mayo, Ireland., Mayo, Ireland
Don't forget your humongous shoes for the trip!
Achill Island, the largest island off of the coast of Ireland, is home to some seriously spectacular scenery. As the signs on this island of 2,700 people indicate, if you fall off a cliff, make sure you're holding a pair of humongous shoes.
Don't forget your humongous shoes for the trip!

Da Enzo Al 29 Sas Di Di Felice Roberto & C.

Rome
Eat
Da Enzo Al 29 Sas Di Di Felice Roberto & C., Rome, Italy
Eggs and bacon, Italian style
No one is really sure where Carbonara comes from. Some say the pasta dish made with eggs, pancetta (or guanciale) and cheese was created by the carbonai, or coal workers, because it's a simple, cheap dish. Other say it was created after World War II for American soldiers who yearned for their bacon and eggs. Whatever the case, if you're in Rome, you must order it at least once. On a recent visit, I tried to eat carbonara at every restaurant I visited. The best I had was at Da Enzo. Located in Trastevere, Da Enzo is popular with locals and off the radar for tourists. Which is always a good sign.
Eggs and bacon, Italian style

Pilatès Stairs

Rome
Do
Pilatès Stairs, Rome, Italy
Saintly Steps
It is, at first, a startling sight to walk into the Lateran Palace in Rome and see a staircase crammed with people on their knees. It all began with Saint Helena, mother of Roman Emperor Constantine, who went on a sanctified shopping spree in the Holy Land in the fourth century. She brought back to Rome a piece of the true cross, a few thorns from Christ's crown, and even the finger from doubting Thomas. She also brought back this staircase which allegedly came from Pontius Pilate's palace in Jerusalem. Which, for believers, means that these stairs are where Christ took his last few steps before being condemned. Today, the Scala Santa, or Holy Steps, are one of the most popular spots in Rome for pilgrims who ascend the steps on their knees, reciting a prayer for each of the 28 steps.
Saintly Steps

Buzet

Buzet
EatDoDrink
Buzet, Buzet, CroatiaAfar-thumbnail
Subotina Festival, Istria
The Subotina Festival in Buzet (held September 7–8 this year) revolves around white and black truffles, but there’s also abundant local olive oil, prosciutto, and herb-infused rakija, homemade brandy popular throughout the Balkans. The weekend’s main attraction will be the making of an omelet with 2,013 eggs (for the year 2013) and, of course, truffles. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image: StockFood/Meier - StockFood Munich
Subotina Festival, Istria

Motovun

Motovun
Do
Motovun, Motovun, CroatiaAfar-thumbnail
Motovun Film Festival, Istria
A 13th-century campanile crowns Motovun. Time your visit with the Motovun Film Festival (July 27−31, 2013), which screens international films outdoors and in historic theaters. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image: Nina Đurđević and Nikola Zelmanović
Motovun Film Festival, Istria

Buzet

Buzet
Stay
Buzet, Buzet, CroatiaAfar-thumbnail
Buzet, Istria
Buzet is an ideal town for wandering. Afterward, settle into the Vela Vrata hotel (pictured) near the church of St. George and its stone city gate, both built during the Venetian empire. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image: courtesy of Vela Vrata
Buzet, Istria

Grožnjan

Bijele Zemlje
Do
Grožnjan, Bijele Zemlje, CroatiaAfar-thumbnail
Jazz Festival in Grožnjan, Istria
Every July and August, the artsy town of Grožnjan swells with visitors who come for classical music concerts and the annual Jazz Is Back festival, held July 13 through August 3 this year. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image: Zolakoma/Flickr.com
Jazz Festival in Grožnjan, Istria

Marina

Novigrad
Eat
Marina, Novigrad, CroatiaAfar-thumbnail
Raw Fish in Istria
There’s a budding movement in Istria to serve raw fish parts traditionally eaten in fishermen’s homes. At Batelina (Čimulje 25, Banjole, 385/ (0) 52-573-767), chef David Skoko prepares mostly raw dishes from seafood caught each morning. The menu at Marina (Svati Antona 38, Novigrad, 385/(0) 52-726-691) emphasizes Italian-accented crudo dishes such as scallops and sole served over rice and red cabbage. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image: Paola Sucato/Flickr.com
Raw Fish in Istria

Hotel Lone

Rovinj
Stay
Hotel Lone, Rovinj, CroatiaAfar-thumbnail
Hotel Lone, Istria
From the outside, Hotel Lone (pronounced LO-nay) looks like a giant zebra-stripe cruise liner. The 236 rooms and 12 suites feature private balconies that wrap around the property like corridors on a ship. Inside, rooms are decorated with textiles inspired by 15th-century Croatian frescoes. A new nightclub will host jazz and blues concerts through September. From $362, 385/(0) 52-800-250. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image: courtesy of Hotel Lone
Hotel Lone, Istria

(Random Street)

Conques
Do
(Random Street), Conques, France
Getting Conqued
Conques, located in the Midi-Pyrenees in the south of France, is not an easy place to find. Unless, of course, you're hiking the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. The medieval village, which boasts a gorgeous cathedral and an ample amount of twee lanes, is packed with pilgrims and hikers have are making the long trek through France and Spain.
Getting Conqued

Aachen Cathedral

Aachen
Do
Aachen Cathedral, Aachen, Germany
A is for Aachen
Aachen might not be what it used to be in the ninth century when the great king Charlemagne made it the base for his half-continent-wide empire. And much of the historic city might have been destroyed in World War II, but this Germany city is still an aesthetically pleasing site for the eyes.
A is for Aachen

Jimmy's Corner

New York
Drink
Jimmy's Corner, New York, New YorkAfar-thumbnail
Times Square's Last Dive Bar
Jimmy’s Corner is long and narrow, as if some great prophet looked at a hallway and said, I see a dimly lit saloon here, complete with an extended bar and walls plastered with photos of boxers. Opened in 1971 by erstwhile pugilist James Lee Glenn, Jimmy’s sits midblock on West 44th Street, between Sixth Avenue and Broadway, in Midtown Manhattan. Which is what makes this no-frills bar unique. It’s a classic American dive, and the only one around, a relic from when the Times Square area was more depravity than Disney. Bartenders, who can spot a near-empty glass with the eyes of a hawk, are friendly but gruff. Case in point: As a 50-something woman with spiky bleached blonde hair mixed me another whiskey soda, I nodded to the boxer-bedecked wall behind the bar and said to my friend, “They don’t really like boxing much here, do they?” The bartender looked down the bar, pointed her finger at me, and bellowed with a thick Russian accent, “He make feeble attempt at joke!” She might have been right. If you go to this watering hole, make sure you’re thirsty (drinks are cheap) and your jokes are not so feeble. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image: Shanna Ravindra
Times Square's Last Dive Bar

Nakasero Market

Kampala
Eat
Nakasero Market, Kampala, Uganda
A Grasshopper Lunch
Smack in the center of the Ugandan capital, Kampala, sits bustling Nakasero Market. The busy market has a live animal section as well as departments for household appliances and clothes and whatever else you might need. There are also plenty of venders selling grasshoppers, a common Ugandan snack. I'm a very adventurous eater but when faced with the prospect of munching on grasshoppers, I suddenly became not very hungry.
A Grasshopper Lunch

Paradis Malahide

Rubavu
Eat
Paradis Malahide, Rubavu, Rwanda
Sambaza!
Many people today travel to Rwanda to gawk at the great mountain gorillas. I was no exception but I did take a couple days to explore the north-western part of this small African nation. While sitting on the banks of Lake Kivu staring across at Goma, the town just over the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo, I nibbled on sambaza, fried minnows, a specialty pulled out of the lake.
Sambaza!

St. Lawrence Market

Toronto
Eat
St. Lawrence Market, Toronto, Canada
Oink Oink in Toronto
Toronto's St. Lawrence Market is crammed with butcher counters and bakeries, ethnic eateries and seafood shops. But there's one main reason why most people come here: the peameal bacon sandwich, which is served at the Carousel Bakery. It's not really bacon -- or at least not the kind you usually eat -- but rather tender, thicker strips of pork from the loin and then rolled in cornmeal. It's a porklicious treat!
Oink Oink in Toronto

Wynand Fockink

Amsterdam
Drink
Wynand Fockink, Amsterdam, The NetherlandsAfar-thumbnail
Wynand Fockink, Amsterdam
Even the strongest jenever—the Dutch predecessor to gin—won’t help you pronounce Wynand Fockink, but this 350-year-old bar and distillery is the best place to sip the juniper-laced drink. Imbibers spill out into an alleyway, their glasses filled with jenever concoctions infused with such flavors as vanilla, coffee, orange, or cinnamon. Pijlsteeg 31, 31/(0) 20-639-2695. Photo courtesy of Zemistor/Flickr. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
Wynand Fockink, Amsterdam

Samhoud Places

Amsterdam
EatDrink
Samhoud Places, Amsterdam, The NetherlandsAfar-thumbnail
Samhoud Places, Amsterdam
Just three months after opening last August, the 70-seat Samhoud Places restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars for international dishes such as sole in hazelnut sauce, chickpea and crab crepes, and eggplant moussaka. Hit the casual lounge for à la carte entrées if you’re not up for the six-course prix-fixe dinner upstairs. Oosterdokseiland 5, 31/(0) 20-260-2094. Photo courtesy of Samhoud Places. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
Samhoud Places, Amsterdam

Conservatorium Hotel Amsterdam

Amsterdam
Stay
Conservatorium Hotel Amsterdam, Amsterdam, The NetherlandsAfar-thumbnail
Conservatorium Hotel, Amsterdam
Located near the lively Museumplein, the Conservatorium Hotel pays tribute to the building’s former life as a music conservatory; a classical sound track changes with the time of day. Italian architect Piero Lissoni played with indoor-outdoor spaces. He created a courtyard lobby encased in glass and a spa with fig and olive trees. From $415. 31/(0) 20-570-0000. Photo courtesy of the Conservatorium Hotel. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
Conservatorium Hotel, Amsterdam

Frozen Fountain

Amsterdam
ShopDo
Frozen Fountain , Amsterdam, The NetherlandsAfar-thumbnail
Traditional Dutch Pottery
Headquartered about an hour north of the city, Royal Tichelaar Makkum has been making traditional Dutch pottery and tiles for more than four centuries. In Amsterdam proper, the design store Frozen Fountain sells modern Makkum pieces, including handpainted earthenware bowls crafted by Dutch designer Hella Jongerius. Prinsengracht 645, 31/(0) 20-622-9375. Photo courtesy of thomasseyck.com. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
Traditional Dutch Pottery

Amsterdam

Amsterdam
Do
Amsterdam, Amsterdam, The NetherlandsAfar-thumbnail
Grachtenfestival, Amsterdam
This year’s Grachtenfestival, an annual 10-day celebration of classical music on Amsterdam’s famous canals, takes place from August 16 through 25. Guides lead architecture tours (in Dutch), and musicians perform on barges and docks. Don’t miss the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, which will play from a pontoon near the Hotel Pulitzer. Photo courtesy of Ronald Knapp. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
Grachtenfestival, Amsterdam

Van Gogh Museum

Amsterdam
Do
Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, The NetherlandsAfar-thumbnail
Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam
It has been a decade since the major museums on the Museumplein—a grassy square connecting Amsterdam’s main art centers—have all been open at the same time. Here’s what to check out at the Van Gogh Museum. Sunflowers, The Bedroom, and The Potato Eaters are just a few of the masterpieces on display as part of the “Van Gogh at Work” exhibit. Paulus Potterstraat 7, 31/(0) 20-570-5200. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam

Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam

Amsterdam
Do
Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam, Amsterdam, The NetherlandsAfar-thumbnail
Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam
It has been a decade since the major museums on the Museumplein—a grassy square connecting Amsterdam’s main art centers—have all been open at the same time. Here’s what to check out at Stedelijk Museum. The modern art gallery’s controversial new wing (the exterior looks like a giant bathtub) houses a restaurant, a gift store, and expanded exhibition spaces that will host the works of Dutch artist Aernout Mik this summer. Museumplein 10, 31/(0) 20-573-2911. Photo courtesy of John Lewis Marshall. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam

Rijksmuseum Amsterdam

Amsterdam
Do
Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, Amsterdam, The NetherlandsAfar-thumbnail
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
It has been a decade since the major museums on the Museumplein—a grassy square connecting Amsterdam’s main art centers—have all been open at the same time. Here’s what to check out at Rijksmuseum. Once you’ve made the pilgrimage to the canvases of Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Hals at the upgraded Rijksmuseum, visit the new Asian art pavilion and a two-story shop filled with gifts and books. Museumstraat 1, 31/(0) 20-674-7000. Photo courtesy of Jannes Linders. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

(some random street corner)

Cartagena
Eat
(some random street corner), Cartagena, Colombia
Cheeks of the Gringo
I was strolling around the old town of Cartagena recently when I stopped to admire the exotic fruit on a street corner. I pointed to pile of apple-sized red fruit and asked what it was. The fruit seller replied: "mejillas del gringo." Translated, it means "cheeks of the gringo."
Cheeks of the Gringo

Sofitel Santa Clara

Cartagena
Stay
Sofitel Santa Clara, Cartagena, Colombia
The Curvy Lady of Cartagena
Walk around the prettied-up city of Cartagena long enough and you're bound to see the Botero sculpture of the curvy lady on Plaza de Santo Domingo. But a lesser known Botero--because it's tucked away in the courtyard of the lovely Sofitel Santa Clara hotel--is the sculpture pictured. It had a home on Paris' Champs Elysees for a couple years before making its way back to the artist's native country.
The Curvy Lady of Cartagena
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