W Hotel, Santiago, Chile
The 196-room W Santiago, which opened in 2009, was designed to emphasize the surrounding landscape. That applies especially to the 21st-floor rooftop pool area, where guests can enjoy views of Santiago and the Andes while slurping oysters and...
The Ultimate Day Trip: Ski the Andes
While sitting at dinner one night in Santiago with my brother, it occurred to us that we should try to ski and snowboard the Andes while we were there for a few days. A quick ask at our hostel, and we were set up for the ultimate day trip,...
Chilean Cuisine from Land and Sea
“Chile has nearly 4,000 miles of coast, one of the most arid deserts on earth, and mountains that climb to 22,000 feet. Imagine the diversity,” marvels Rodolfo Guzman. The chef behind Santiago’s restaurant Borago is on a mission to promote his...
Los Porteños Restaurant, Valparaiso, Chile
Chile’s 4,000-milecoastline provides a bounty of seafood. At Los Porteños, trypastel de jaiba, crab served in a casserole with bread crumbs and cream.—Steven Bodzin
56/(0) 32-225-1915. This appeared in the November/December 2011 issue. Photo by...
Pablo Neruda’s House, Valparaiso, Chile
The poet Pablo Neruda redefined the city with hisOde to Valparaíso, calling it “the patched bow of a small courageous ship.” Today, visitors can tour his home, known as La Sebastiana. The building is now a museum with one of the city’s finest gift...
Mastodonte Restaurant, Valparaiso, Chile
Mingle with the locals at Mastodonte, a zany, safari- and Stone Age–themed restaurant near Plaza Aníbal Pinto. Order the chorrillana, a rib-filling plate of fries smothered in beef, cheese, onion, and fried egg.
Esmeralda 1139, 56/(0) 32-225-1205....
Funicular Fun in Valparaiso
We can all remember how much fun it was to ride escalators as a kid. We'd try to go up the 'down' one and down the 'up' one, until our parents told us to stop (and then we'd do it all over again when they weren't looking, but I digress.) In the...
Ascending Valparaiso’s Ascensores
by Steven Bodzin
Valparaiso has the world’s biggest concentration of hillside railways, known locally as ascensores, or elevators. Victorian developers built 30 of them to shuttle residents and their goods up and down the city’s steep coastal...
Valparaíso: Crown of Chile
Valparaíso, Chile’s main port city, rises from the water into steep hills laced with staircases and winding streets. Generations of poets, mariners, and adventurers have passed through. While the city has some of Chile’s best dining, the streets...
