Beach strolling, amber jewel picking, kite boarding. Three reasons why the beach in Hvide Sande is not to be missed.
Now I'm the last person on Earth that takes food photos, I just like to sit down and eat the stuff. However, I would've been remiss had I not captured this, uh, delicacy that graced my presence while dining in Copenhagen. Having been tortured for days with nothing but 'boiled this' and 'pickled that,' I was craving a steak, and that's what I ordered when I returned to the city. You are viewing what arrived, much to my dismay, at my table. Yes, there was a steak underneath what I estimated to be at least two, maybe three, potatoes combined to create the 'mashed potato wave' featured here. And while I forget the name of the restaurant, I assure you I will NEVER forget those crazy potatoes.
Mobs of tourists line up to get their photo taken in front of Copenhagen's iconic Little Mermaid statue. The bronze replica of Hans Christian Andersen's beloved fairytale mermaid was certainly cute. But I found the city's less famous mermaid to be much cooler (and totally crowd-free). The “Genetically Modified Little Mermaid” is on a square by Dahlerups Pakhus, an old warehouse in the Copenhagen Harbour, just a short walk from the real statue. Bjørn Nørgaard created the abstract mermaid as part of a larger sculpture group called the Genetically Modified Paradise. The collection of sculptures is supposed to be the artist’s ironic view of the postmodern society and a meditation on the way genetic technology is changing the way humans perceive themselves. His other works surround a large fountain and are abstract representations of Madonna, Adam, Christ, Maria Magdalena, Eve, the...
Lønstrup is a wonderfull small town at the nortwest sea with great food at Restaurant Villa Vest, local crafts and beautiful houses. A great place to visit in Denmark.
Architecture and physics nerds must stop by the Bella Sky Comwell Hotel in Copenhagen's Ørestad neighborhood.The largest hotel in Scandinavia, its dizzying towers lean at a dramatic 15 degrees in each direction (11 degrees more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa). The triangular blue and white patterned exterior, was designed to minimize solar heat gain and maximize energy efficiency.
Even if you don't book a room here, visit the Sky Bar on the 23rd floor for piano music, cocktails, and great views or walk across the bridge that connects the two towers (it feels like the bridge sways in the wind).
This was an excellent cup of cappuccino in Kaffeeslabberasen, which we found by accident, not too far from the central train station. Not only is there excellent coffee but also sandwiches and pastries in the cafe.
I grew up without ever knowing my mother's father or even really knowing anything about him, so on a recent trip to Denmark we decided to visit the very un-touristy island of Lolland where he grew up. The church he would have attended and where his parents are reported to be buried was easy to find, standing tall amid the flat farmland. We never found any of the family graves, but I short visit inside the church let me think not only about the physical world of my ancestors, but the similarities and differences in out interior lives, our hopes, and beliefs. Much of the world is the same, much is different, but this church is probably almost exactly as my ancestors would have seen it 100 years ago. It's a time warp of sorts.
We saw an Irish bar in Copenhagen's city center. Auspicious beginnings for what would be a really great trip, my first international jaunt since I was a tween. After a stressful flight, though, it was all we could do to calm our nerves by walking Copenhagen's main carfree shopping drag, Strøget.
After seeing some pleasantly empty alfresco seats outside of the Irish Rover pub (it was November in Scandinavia, after all), we decided to rest our legs for a bite and a pint. What we saw instead was the Fisherman's shots, billed as a Danish favorite. Deciding to don the tourist hat for just a few hours, my companions and I agreed to indulge.
Smelling not unlike Jägermeister, the Fisherman's shots were not as syrupy. The hint of licorice in the vodka-based liquor was bright and not too sweet, and like a Danish lozenge of the same name, tasted of strong, fragrant menthol. Sitting out in the...
This statue is in the dungeon below Kronborg Castle in northern Denmark, better known as Hamlet's Castle. The dungeons are actually pitch-black and at moat level. I also recommend going up on the roof of the castle where you can see the city of Helsingor and Sweden across the gulf. The Maritime Museum within us very interesting too.
This is the northern most point in Denmark! You can stand at the very tip where the sand recedes into the water. The waves from both the Baltic and the North Sea crash into your feet at the same time as they greet each other. The sky seems to hang low and you feel like you have truly traveled to the top of the world.
Copenhagen explodes with Christmas markets the first weekend of December. Real-life cheer is everywhere, and it's not even freezing yet.
In particular: there's the most epic artificial man-made Christmas wonderland that, despite being artificial and man-made and commercial, is no better way to start off the holiday season. Tivoli, the tourist classic, old school amusement park. I will probably never feel that much child-like joy, see so many twinkly, dramatic displays, or 100% believe in my heart that reindeers could fly, ever, ever again.
Tucked away unassumingly in Copenhagen's hip Meatpacking District is one of the city's top seafood restaurants, Kodbyens Fiskebar Restaurant. The industrial-style interior has design elements taken from the neighborhood and may not seem the setting for a Michelin-worthy meal, but the casual vibe in my opinion, only enhances the experience.
The chef is fanatical about sourcing the freshest seafood. If you haven't booked a table in advance, try going early and score a seat at the bar. The bartender will insist you have a glass of white wine with your oysters (try the briny Marennes). And don't miss the excellent razor clam with maltbread, fennel, tarragon and dill.
The rainy or cold weather can make walking down the famous Strøget in Copenhagen, Denmark in the off-season a little tiring. There's a little bit of magic just off the main walking street in the form of the Royal Cafe. The high pink walls and large windows let in a lot of light, which reflects off the artfully placed mirrors and display glasses. Rest on funky-patterned seats at small or large community tables and order a coffee or a custom smørrebrød known as a "Smushie" to warm up.
A visit to Denmark must include trying the country's famous, impossible-to-pronounce open-faced sandwich, smørrebrød (I'm fairly certain that only native Danish speakers can pronounce it properly -"SMUHR-bruth"). Smørrebrød translates to "buttered bread"and a traditional smørrebrød lunch usually includes three or four small sandwiches ranging from potatoes and radish to egg salad.
The once working class lunch gets a chefy makeover at Aamanns where the smørrebrød is served on homemade rye bread. The restaurant design is charming, with big stencils of radishes and cows on the walls. Order the smørrebrød trio for lunch and ask to have it paired with a biodynamic wine.
Unfortunately I spent most of our trip to Copenhagen in soggy tennis shoes cursing the weather and complaining that we couldn’t picnic in the rose gardens of Rosenborg castle. To escape a sudden downpour we hustled inside the castle to quickly dry off and were talked into reluctantly taking a tour. To our surprise the tour ended in a basement of gorgeous crown jewels. Somehow we spent over two hours oogling crowns and sketching designs. When we emerged the sun peeked out from the clouds and we were able to enjoy the gardens after all!
Some of my most spiritual moments have happened in modern art museums, so I love that this gallery is housed in Copenhagen's third oldest church.
When I visited, I saw a haunting exhibit by artist Zineb Sedira about the complexities of our interconnected world. Her images of massive ships rusting off the coast of Mauritania were strangely (uncomfortably) beautiful.
Grand danois hotdog at Andersen Bakery: organic pork sausage from the island of Bornholm topped with organic ketchup, mustard from the island of Bornholm, homemade remoulade, homemade crispy onions and pickled cucumbers. Verdict? Worth the trip to Copenhagen!