A Local's Guide to Istanbul
What to do, see, and eat in a part of Istanbul's Beyoğlu district called Tophane. Gallery owner Sylvia Kouvali takes us on a tour.
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Hiç Contemporary Crafts, Istanbul
by Sylvia Kouvali
A few blocks from Rodeo, Hiç is a shop where you can find beautiful ceramic tableware, Afghan and Turkish carpets, and contemporary crafts at reasonable prices. Lüleci Hendek Cd. No. 35, 90/(0) 212-251-9973, hiccrafts.com
As told...
Karaköy Lokantasi Restaurant, Istanbul
by Sylvia Kouvali
The best restaurant in the area is run by the sweetest owners, Oral Kurt and Aylin Okutan, and is rooted in the tradition of simple food and refined service. The Ottoman and Turkish menu includes dishes likehünkar beğendi, a meat...
Kiliç Ali Paşa Complex, Istanbul
by Sylvia Kouvali
The mosque here was built for an admiral who, they say, demanded that the architect Sinan build him ‘something like that,’ as he pointed across to the Aya Sofia. The complex also includes a newly renovated hammam where I take...
The Istanbul Modern Art Museum
by Sylvia Kouvali
The Istanbul Modern, right on the Bosporus, shows works from such well-known Turkish artists as Kutlug Ataman. The second-floor restaurant has harbor views.Meclis-i Mebusan Cd. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası Antrepo No. 4, 90/(0)...
Yöremiz Pide, Istanbul
by Sylvia Kouvali
The neighorhood’s best bakery is across the street from Rodeo. They make goodlahmacun, something between an unrolled pita and a thin-crust pizza. Thepides, pizza-like baked breads, are also excellent.Lüleci Hendek Cd. No. 14,...
Rodeo Art Gallery, Istanbul
by Sylvia Kouvali
My little avant-garde gallery does more than just hang art on the walls. We show performance art, too. We once had the multidisciplinary Turkish artist Cevdet Erek rubbing his hands along a carpet that was hung on a gallery wall....
Salt Galata Art Center, Istanbul
by Sylvia Kouvali
A multipurpose contemporary art center that opened in November in the Ottoman Bank building, Salt has a library with thousands of shelves of art publications—the most important, impressive collection in the city.Bankalar Cd. No....
Bas Artists’ Books, Istanbul
by Sylvia Kouvali
This place is run by Banu Cennetoğlu, one of Turkey’s most important artists. It acts as a public archive for artists’ books. The stationery shop on the ground floor, As Kirtasiye, is like a museum of paper and pens.Necatibey Cd....
Marquise Dance Hall, Istanbul
by Sylvia Kouvali
The artist Mark Van Yetter and his wife, Ayça Odabasi, run this gallery around the corner from Rodeo. Their art exhibitions are always free-spirited. Ali Hoca Sk. No. 4 Kat. 2, marquisedancehall.com
As told to Lawrence Osborne....
