The best of Athens is sometimes hidden. Athens is gritty; it's raw; it's graffiti-filled; and it's entirely unapologetic. Some hate it, but those who love Athens are those who really understand the city and all she's been through. How can you fault the birthplace of democracy for her crumbling ways? Real Greece begins here, beneath the Acropolis and over a plate of mezedes. Grab a frappé, join Athenians under the awnings of Exarcheia, and soak up Athens's city vibe.