A Week in the Piemontese Countryside

The Bicerin is a gastronomic speciality of Turin. I love both chocolate and espresso, and was delighted to discover this warming confection in a glass, also called a Bicerin. The drink is layered into the glass oh so carefully: espresso first, then cocoa and finally a topping of thick cream. Sublime! There are more elegant places to enjoy a Bicerin in Turin, but if you want to try the drink at the place where it was created more than 200 years ago, head for Piazza della Consolata and Caffè Al Bicerin. Sit at one of the six or so tables in this cafe where, as the locals say, “everything tastes like history”, order your drink and enjoy with a morning newspaper. You will also have opportunity for people-watching as locals queue at the counter for sweet breakfast breads. When you are done, go next door to the tiny shop and buy cocoa or chocolates in old-fashioned tins to take home and preserve the memory of this special treat.

Piazza Castello glistens in the sun after a sudden downpour. Much of the historic center of Torino is pedestrianized and easily explored in a couple of days. For Roman history enthusiasts the aqueducts, arches and ancient city walls are a treat. In the evening, enjoy a glass of prosecco and aperitivo (free buffet or sandwiches and other light bites brought to your table) at one of the outdoor cafés in Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Then head south on Corso Cairoli, following the river, and stop at one of the many waterfront bars. The sun doesn’t go down until after 9pm making the evening, with it’s magical soft light, the perfect time for strolling this pretty city.