The little city of Banos is situated on the side of volcano Tungurahua and has gorgeous waterfalls like this one, the Pailon del Diablo or Devil's Cauldron. To get up this high the trail first drops about 1000 feet into the valley and then climbs via stairs and ladders until it ends inside the waterfall under a sheltered rock overhang with millions of gallons of water thundering around. It's quite wet and the "trail" turns into a crawl space at certain points but the view is astonishing.

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Rapa Nui National Park
I've learned that some of the best times to be had when traveling, are when you wake up before anyone else. This, fortunately, is made easier when you travel towards the West. We decided that we just had to see the sun rise over the famous Easter Island Moai (these big, enigmatic statues). We woke up well before sunrise to take the 45 minute drive across the Island to this sacred stand. While the sun rose, we enjoyed a small breakfast picnic. The company was excellent; the view was magnificent.
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La Cantaranita
By Mariana TschudiEveryone in Lima knows Canta Rana—some consider it the best cevichería in the city. The owners’ son has a spot in the main market called Canta Ranita where the ceviche is just as good, and even though it’s a stall, the place has tons more personality. I especially like their sudado [a fish dish made with lime and tomatoes]. Mercado el Capullo, Jr. Unión 147. Photo by David Nicolas Giraldo. This appeared in the July/August 2012 issue.
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Pisac
The legendary Pisac Marketplace on Sundays. Just a short taxi ride from Cusco, this place is filled with everything you can imagine. It is split into two areas, one being the art, textiles & souvenirs, and the other side being a food market where the locals bring their produce to sell/trade. There are vendors who serve boiled or fried corn with seasoning, which is excellent! Don't be surprised to see a cow head sitting next to a bowl full of fresh fish. You can easily walk away from this place with all of the gifts you would want to bring home for your loved ones. After visiting the market, check out the ruins of the old fortress & terraces which overlook the town.
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Getsemaní
You know how some places look like they were painted into real life? Cartagena, Colombia is one of those places.
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Cuzco
In the San Blas district of Peru, was the restaurant Pachapapa. This was by far the best meal we had in Peru. It was nestled in a courtyard and all the dishes were prepared in an oven next to us. Quite spectacular. DELICIOUS!
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Farmers’ Market
Open only on Saturdays, this large market has stalls selling lots of fresh fruits and fish for good prices. Everyone who lives in Rio is addicted to açai, the Amazonian berry that’s loaded with antioxidants. The berry doesn’t come from this region of Brazil, but you can get it fresh in the market in a big bowl mixed with strawberries or ice cream. Rua Frei Leandro As told to Heidi Mitchell. Photo by Gabriel Rinaldi. This appeared in the March/April 2012 issue. See all of Batman Zavarese’s favorite places in Jardim Botânico.
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Rapa Nui National Park
Easter Island is a strange, remote, and magical place. After a full day of wandering around this tiny island, we were fortunate enough to witness an absolutely breathtaking sunset over the Pacific. The "beach" here is made up of pitch black volcanic stone. I found it to be utterly fascinating.
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Hotel Surazo
During my stay at the new Hotel Surazo, I fell asleep to the sound of the Pacific surf pounding the sand. Located in Matanzas, a village on the sparsely populated, mountainous central Chilean coast, this low-slung, modern surf lodge is about 50 feet from the waves. The friendly Chilean owners, Andrés Tobar and Felipe Wedeles Tondreau, built two bunk-filled dormitories and eight minimalist, wood-and-glass private rooms equipped with terraces, ocean views, and hammocks. Daytime activities include sport fishing for merluza (hake), surfing, or windsurfing (lessons arranged by the hotel), and strolling along lonely black-sand beaches strewn with giant cochayuyo (an edible kelp that Tobar cooks for guests). At night, soak in one of the Surazo’s wood-fired hot tubs. —Vanessa Gregory Hotel Surazo, 56/99-744-2439, bunks from $28, private rooms from $60. Photo courtesy of Hotel Surazo. This appeared in the March/April 2010 issue.
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Rapa Nui National Park
While I still have my doubts that this Moai is authentic, and that it has somehow survived underwater in such pristine condition, while its above water compatriots have been so abused my time, and that it made it's way far off the shoreline to a conveniently beautiful coral reef without being destroyed what whatever natural disaster supposedly brought it here.... it was still a most memorable experience to scuba dive right up to it and say hello.
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Buenos Aires, Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires
Take a Sunday stroll through the cobblestone streets of San Telmo in Buenos Aires. The streets surrounding the Plaza Dorrego are filled with vendors selling art, antiques and souvenirs. In the center of the plaza you are bound to come across a street performance or two. Here in the center of the plaza, a couple entertains the crown with the dance that Argentina is famous for- the tango.
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Machu Picchu
We toured the site late in the afternoon, and our guide showed us the places to stand to watch the sunrise the next morning. It was amazing enough just to be there, but to watch as the sun burned through the mist to reveal the ruins was surreal. It was one of the highlights of my life. Peru is a wonderful country with beautiful people...I look forward to returning to experience more sites, sounds, tastes and smiles.
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Dois Pedros, Fernando de Naronha
Do you go down to the beach via ladder, or just sit on the cliff and get lulled into a trance with with rhythm of the waves? Or just come back again tomorrow? Ahhh choices.....
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La Brigada S.A.
The carne at this San Telmo restaurant is so succulent that the servers cut it with a spoon. Order the lomo cut, which is the Argentine version of filet mignon. 54/(11) 4361-5557. For the September, 2012 issue, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony shared with us their favorite places in Argentina.
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Cuzco
The steep streets of the San Blas district in Cusco, Peru. Almost like a maze, you could spend hours wandering, and always run into something interesting. Are we there yet?
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Rapa Nui National Park
We awoke long before sunrise and drove our car across the island to Ahu Tongariki, the picturesque, and probably most recognizable site on Easter Island. We had seen this once before in the daylight, but were anxious for the chance to see it at sunrise. We brought a blanket from our hostel, canned peaches for breakfast, and our tripods. We huddled together in the dark waiting for the sun to rise, and as it did, we marveled at the row of stone staring back at us. The morning was perfect until a local woman charged with guarding this ancient site spotted us from her tent up the hill, and angrily told us we were not allowed to camp here. Despite our protests and denials that we had slept below the heads, we trudged away giggling guiltily (although we were quite innocent), still exhilarated from the rising sun.
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Buenos Aires
A new generation of street artists, many with backgrounds in graphic design, emerged in Buenos Aires after Argentina’s economic crash in 2001. They have covered buildings in the city with stenciled slogans and vivid, cartoon-like characters—some political, some purely aesthetic—that are generally viewed as art, not vandalism. Graffitimundo’s walking tour introduces travelers to these artists in the hip Palermo neighborhood. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Visit five studios, plus showrooms, public spaces, and galleries that feature the original works of street artists; talk with such artists as Tec, Jaz, and the “rundontwalk” stencil collective about their latest works, painting techniques, and the city’s graffiti history. HIGHLIGHTS: Create your own graffiti artwork under the guidance of a street artist (at an additional cost). Pick out a street-style painting to bring home. Chat with local artists at Hollywood in Cambodia, a graffiti gallery and bar. Graffitimundo, 54/9-11-36-833- 219, three-hour tour from $20. Photo courtesy of Graffitimundo. This appeared in the December/January 2010 issue.
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Bar do Mineiro
The Santa Teresa district is a tangle of cobblestone streets and crumbling landmarks perched above the city. It’s undergoing a renaissance thanks to anchors such as the restored Hotel Santa Teresa and the working-class eatery Bar do Mineiro. The latter lures diners with its feijoada (bean and mixed meat stew).
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Buenos Aires, Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires should be called the 'city of really cool markets.' I don't think there is any item that you cannot find there. And more often than not, you will find just the right item that you didn't even realize you were looking for. I came upon this little stand one afternoon, and was struck by the fact that this vendor sold ONLY this one item. I mean, are colorful seltzer bottles in such high demand that one can devote an entire booth to them? Apparently so, because this place was thriving. Of course, I had found that perfect item that I didn't even know I wanted.
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Machu Picchu
With limited time, we had to forego hiking the Inca trail to get to Machu Picchu. The alternative? Taking the train down the Urubamba river valley. The ride from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes, at the base of the mountain crowned by the ruined Inca citadel, has got to be one of the most scenic train trips anywhere. You start at a frosty 12,000 feet, dropping almost 6,000 feet by the time you arrive at the end of the line a few hours later, chugging past terraced farms and mountain fortresses. Bromeliads and orchids along this tributary of the Amazon let you know: you have arrived in the jungle. Perched above, at about 8000 feet, is Machu Picchu.
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Rapa Nui National Park
As we walked back to our hostel from the main village of Rapa Nui, I noticed this small collection of ruins in the distance, detail worn away, but still majestic. I huddled in the flickering grass and captured the beings, still magnificent even when far away and out of focus.
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Valparaiso
Valparaíso, Chile’s main port city, rises from the water into steep hills laced with staircases and winding streets. Generations of poets, mariners, and adventurers have passed through. While the city has some of Chile’s best dining, the streets retain a Bohemian vibe. In the course of a weekend, visitors can stay at a high-ceilinged bed-and-breakfast, ride 19th- century funiculars up and down coastal bluffs, travel back in time at Pablo Neruda’s home, and relax over local microbrews. Just watch out for drunken sailors—Valparaíso’s port still welcomes vessels daily. —Steven Bodzin This appeared in the November/December 2011 issue. Photo by Roberto Ruiz.
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Restaurante Amoramar
By Mariana TschudiAmorAmar is by far the chicest spot in the neighborhood. Part of the dining room is open-air, and an art gallery and a florist shop are on-site. The menu is half Peruvian classics and half fusion-y dishes. Their pisco sours with aji amarillo (yellow chile peppers) and milhojas puff pastries, layered with chocolate and lúcuma, a local fruit, are fantastic. Jr. García y García 175, 51/(0) 1619-9595, amoramar.com. Photo by David Nicolas Giraldo. This appeared in the July/August 2012 issue.
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Livraria Ponte de Tábuas
The coffeeshop inside this bookstore is run by the Brazilian restaurant Ateliê Culinário, so the food is fantastic. But I come for the terrific collection of books. The store is small and cozy and feels like a reading room. Sometimes I’ll lose myself for hours in an obscure art book and a glass of red wine—then I feel compelled to buy the book. I always run into people from the art and music worlds here. Rua Jardim Botânico 585, 55/(21) 2259-8686, pontedetabuas.com.br As told to Heidi Mitchell. Photo by Gabriel Rinaldi. This appeared in the March/April 2012 issue. See all of Batman Zavarese’s favorite places in Jardim Botânico.
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Chango Club Discoteca
The city of Cali, Colombia, is experiencing a renaissance, thanks to its title as the country’s capital of salsa dancing. Cali, home to just over 2 million people, brims with salsatecas, or salsa clubs, to suit any style or age, as well as salsa-savvy residents who graciously share the fun. The genre first arrived in Colombia around 1930, when sailors brought salsa from the Caribbean back to Cali, and Caleños made it their own. “Cali salsa has a unique flavor. The dancers make it work by really moving, picking up their feet, and putting their mark on the music,” says Luz Aydé Moncayo, an award-winning salsa dancer who runs the studio Son de Luz, in the working-class Alameda neighborhood. Dance lessons with Moncayo start at about $10 an hour. Once you’ve mastered the basic 1-2-3 step, take a taxi across the Cauca River to the gritty Juanchito neighborhood, known for its cavernous clubs reminiscent of those in 1940s mobster films. Bow-tied bouncers guard the doors at Changó, where red leather banquettes surround a dimly lit dance floor. Share a bottle of aguardiente (anise-flavored cane spirits) as you watch couples spin, and then get on your feet. Or head over to Tin Tin Deo, a more bohemian salsateca closer to the city center. Here, all sorts of dancers, from pairs in sequins and silk to students swaying with their own style, take to the floor. On Sunday afternoons, don’t miss the viejotecas or “old folks’ dance clubs,” a Cali institution. The liveliest is Poliactivo, located behind the bus station. It’s open to all ages and features salsa classics from the 1960s and 1970s. Ask someone here to dance, and you might also get a lesson in the city’s salsa history. —Annie Murphy Photo by Cristian Delvalle. This appeared in the May/June 2010 issue.
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La Noche
By Mariana TschudiSome of the best bands in Peru play at this dive bar. It also holds an annual film festival. This year, I’m applying to screen my short film about the Peruvian sea, Madre Mar [Mother Sea]. Avenida Bolognesi 307, 51/(0) 1247-1012, lanoche.com.pe. Photo by David Nicolas Giraldo. This appeared in the July/August 2012 issue.
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Rio de Janeiro
Rio has never been busier. The city is building up and out for the 2014 World Cup and the 2016 Summer Olympics. Part of a massive port facelift, the Museum of Art of Rio opens later this year. But in colonial bairros, such as Santa Teresa, fresh paint hasn’t changed the carioca spirit. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue.
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