by Javier Gover, As Told To Bridget Gleeson Wander through an old-fashioned flea market filled with unusual lamps, old Atari games, and cool radios. The items here have been preserved in perfect condition and the prices are fair. Av. Álvarez Thomas and Av. Dorrego, 54/(0) 11-5382-6234 This story appeared in the September/October 2011 issue. Photo by Graciela Cattarossi. See all of Javier Gover’s favorite places in Palermo Viejo.
One of the best ways to experience some of the most interesting food Buenos Aires has to offer is to follow the private dining trend going on now. There’s a few restaurants that offer top notch cuisine with a more intimate and authentic feel by providing set menus that have been carefully thought out and come straight from the chefs hands. Cocina Sunae explores different Asian flavors in an intimate setting. From the moment I arrived I was blown away by the decor in the house and the colorful artwork that was all around. The fact that I was in the chefs actual home made the entire situation incredibly charming. There were about 6 or 7 tables and they were, at one point, all full. We started with crispy and tasty beef and pork wontons. Then we got deeper into the hole with fresh Vietnamese hand rolls. By that point I was anticipating something amazing just based on how good the appetizers were. I had the Filipino inspired adobo chicken and Manny had the red curry shrimp with vegetables. The flavors we experienced last night were truly special and Christina herself would pop out of the kitchen from time to time to make sure everything was going smoothly or explain what the dish you were eating was. And what of the amazing fried banana with green tea ice cream? It was talking to me and blowing me kisses! The menu is pre-fixed and changes every 2 weeks, which gives you a perfect excuse to return with a smile and an empty stomach.
Take a Sunday stroll through the cobblestone streets of San Telmo in Buenos Aires. The streets surrounding the Plaza Dorrego are filled with vendors selling art, antiques and souvenirs. In the center of the plaza you are bound to come across a street performance or two. Here in the center of the plaza, a couple entertains the crown with the dance that Argentina is famous for- the tango.
A new generation of street artists, many with backgrounds in graphic design, emerged in Buenos Aires after Argentina’s economic crash in 2001. They have covered buildings in the city with stenciled slogans and vivid, cartoon-like characters—some political, some purely aesthetic—that are generally viewed as art, not vandalism. Graffitimundo’s walking tour introduces travelers to these artists in the hip Palermo neighborhood. WHAT YOU’LL DO: Visit five studios, plus showrooms, public spaces, and galleries that feature the original works of street artists; talk with such artists as Tec, Jaz, and the “rundontwalk” stencil collective about their latest works, painting techniques, and the city’s graffiti history. HIGHLIGHTS: Create your own graffiti artwork under the guidance of a street artist (at an additional cost). Pick out a street-style painting to bring home. Chat with local artists at Hollywood in Cambodia, a graffiti gallery and bar. Graffitimundo, 54/9-11-36-833- 219, three-hour tour from $20. Photo courtesy of Graffitimundo. This appeared in the December/January 2010 issue.
Buenos Aires should be called the 'city of really cool markets.' I don't think there is any item that you cannot find there. And more often than not, you will find just the right item that you didn't even realize you were looking for. I came upon this little stand one afternoon, and was struck by the fact that this vendor sold ONLY this one item. I mean, are colorful seltzer bottles in such high demand that one can devote an entire booth to them? Apparently so, because this place was thriving. Of course, I had found that perfect item that I didn't even know I wanted.
Buenos Aires is a city that brings together the finest elements of your imagination, and puts them in one perfect place for your real life enjoyment. Sadly, one of those perfect elements will soon come to an end. Dating all the way back to 1913, the 90 subway cars that make up the time warp that is the city's underground transportation system will soon be decommissioned. These beautiful wooden relics represent the oldest running cars that still operate anywhere on the globe. I was in disbelief when I entered this empty car a few years ago. I felt like Harry Potter on his way to Hogwarts, and all I needed was to pick up a wand at the local market. In an age where we are constantly trying to make 'throwback this' and 'vintage that,' these cars are one of the last true bastions of historical public transportation. They won't be running much longer, so now is the time to head down to Argentina and catch a ride before this train, sadly, makes its final stop.
Turning the corner onto Pasaje Zelaya in the Abasto area of Buenos Aires reveals a shocking array of colors in a celebration of all things Argentinian. The walls on the buildings here are covered in poetry, song lyrics, tango dancers, portraits of important figures and more. I walked down this street expecting to find a museum; it turned out to be closed but I ended up discovering a great deal about Argentinian culture anyway.
We took a Graffitimundo tour of Palermo in Buenos Aires that was great and highly recommended to anyone who wants to see a different part of the city. In addition to seeing tons of cool and beautiful graffiti, we also met some artists and they showed us their gallery and answered our questions.
Turning the corner onto Pasaje Zelaya in the Abasto area of Buenos Aires reveals a shocking array of colors in a celebration of all things Argentinian. The walls on the buildings here are covered in poetry, song lyrics, tango dancers, portraits of important figures and more. I walked down this street expecting to find a museum; it turned out to be closed but I ended up discovering a great deal about Argentinian culture anyway.
This Sunday street fair provides a glimpse into traditional Argentine gaucho culture. Wander the stalls and you’ll find scarves, leather goods, and authentic souvenirs by local artisans. For the September, 2012 issue, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony shared with us their favorite places in Argentina.
The carne at this San Telmo restaurant is so succulent that the servers cut it with a spoon. Order the lomo cut, which is the Argentine version of filet mignon. 54/(11) 4361-5557. For the September, 2012 issue, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony shared with us their favorite places in Argentina.
One of the most delightful things I discovered in Buenos Aires was that steaming cups of cappuccinos were often accompanied by tiny scoops of vanilla gelato to help cool and sweeten it- two treats in one!
by Javier Gover, As Told To Bridget Gleeson Palermo’s Pequeña Italia (Little Italy) was born when a group of guys started serving good food in a tiny trattoria with graffiti-style art on the walls. Try the homemade fusilli or the spaghetti alla puttanesca and a glass or two of Malbec. Gorriti 5737, 54/(0) 11-4776-4247, ilballo.tv This story appeared in the September/October 2011 issue. Photo by Graciela Cattarossi. See all of Javier Gover’s favorite places in Palermo Viejo.
As I stared at the piece of brightly colored wall in front of me created by the street artist Gaulicho – I did find it pleasing. It was bright orange and yellow with his signature psychedelic trademarks of hands and eyes. It appeared playful, and I felt like somewhere in all of those images and jagged lines there was a story. I thought to myself – maybe I am learning to appreciate this type of art after all. The Graffiti Art Tour In Buenos Aires turned out to be a great way to see and understand the often confusing street art around the city. But more importantly it was a great way to learn about the history and appreciate the stories behind these unusual artists and creations in their ‘open air galleries’. Our guide started in the Palermo neighborhood in front a piece of street art where this movement really began. She covered the history of how graffiti art began in Buenos Aires and how it has grown into a ‘culture’ in the city. We not only looked at art on the street, but we also went to a street artist's studio and to an actual gallery that specialized in street art. They even offered courses on how to make your own if you really felt like getting hands on! More Information: http://www.ottsworld.com/blogs/buenos-aires-street-art/ http://www.viator.com/tours/Buenos-Aires/Small-Group-Buenos-Aires-Graffiti-Art-Tour/d901-5727BAGRFT
Where in the world can you read Shakepeare's famous plays while on a stage, or in the box, and pretend to be the Bard while reading about the Bard? Only one place that I know of, El Ateneo in Buenos Aires in the neighborhood of Barrio Norte. Featuring one of the world's largest collections of books for sale, a terrific cafe and corner after dark corner ripe for long hours of book perusing and reading - this Argentinian bookshop that was once a theater is heaven for lovers of drama both acted and written. There isn't really a bad time to go, the space is more than large enough to accomodate crowds and yet cozy enough to surround the visitor even when nearly alone. The only thing you'll have to decide when you do go, is how you fit everything else into a day of sightseeing when inevitably everything else you had wanted to do won't seem quite as appealing after you've stepped through the front doors and into this theatre of literary love.
Buller is the first brewery in Buenos Aires. Ask for the beer sampler with 6 handmade beers. Very good!
Puente de la Mujer- or bridge of the woman- is a pedestrian bridge located on dock 3 in the Puerto Madero district in Buenos Aires. The bridge, designed by Santiago Calatreva, is one of the most recognized monuments in the area and symbolizes a couple dancing the tango.
When in Buenos Aires, make sure to check out the San Telmo Flea Market on Sundays. Crowded, but a lot of fun.
The store specializes in antiques and vintage clothing from the 1920s to the 1980s. Everything has an air of elegance, from the beaded gowns to the crystal decanters. 54/(11) 4361-5019. For the September, 2012 issue, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony shared with us their favorite places in Argentina.
A recent renovation brought modern touches and a polo theme to the Four Seasons in the Recoleta neighborhood. At the new Pony Line bar, Sebastian Maggi crafts cocktails such as the Des-Coya martini (vodka, pisco, torrontés wine, and Saint-Germain) to go with oxtail empanadas. The hotel offers seven spacious suites in a restored Belle Époque−style mansion adjacent to the main building. Gaucho blankets keep guests warm at private, open-air asados (traditional barbecues). From $425. Posadas 1086, 54/(0) 11-4321-1200. Photo courtesy of the Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
Serving Thai and Filipino foods, kitchen Sunae calls with deviled flavors, fresh herbs and exotic spices, in a closed-door restaurant with authentic recipes of Southeast Asia in Buenos Aires.
Born in the immigrant quarter brothels of Buenos Aires, the Tango originally developed representing a duel between challengers for the favors of a woman. The early Tango was considered so obscene Pope Pius X actually banned the dance. The Tango is currently danced throughout the world and in 2009 UNESCO declared the dance part of the world's cultural heritage. With just six months of lessons under our belts, my girlfriend and I traveled to Buenos Aires to study and dance the Tango. We attended several Milongas (Tango events) in the city. These were not touristy shows but down and dirty dance halls where locals hang out to drink, socialize, and dance. We rapidly found our dance improving, particularly after a few glasses of wine! Throughout our travels we often heard "Tango is not just a dance, but a way of life."
Located in the Plaza de las Naciones Unidas in Buenos Aires, the Floralis Generica is a 75 foot high steel and aluminium sculpture of a flower by Eduardo Catalano. Situated in the center of a park, the sculpture has an electrical mechanism that opens the petals every morning at 8am and closes them at sunset. While the petals are closed, it a red glow radiates from within the flower which the artist has said illustrates its "wait to be reborn the following morning."
Located in the Recoleta neighborhood of Buenos Aires, this 14 acre cemetery has literally thousands of above ground vaults and you can easily spend an afternoon exploring the many sections of mausoleums. Eva Peron is interned here, as well as several former presidents of Argentina and you can pick up a map before you enter the cemetery to help you find the more popular vaults. Adding to the spooky nature of the area, feral cats run wild among the walkways.
I’ve attended quite a few professional tango shows over the years, but I’ve always wondered where you can see the best tango in the world on any given night. Rojo Tango—"a mix of love, passion, madness and glamour"—at the high-fashion Faena Hotel in Buenos Aires might be it. The room is really small. Maybe 50 people are sandwiched around tiny cafe tables between the 10-piece band and short stage. Grab a seat by the band or right upfront so you’ll feel like you’re almost part of show. With the accordian player directly behind me, the lights go down and the show begins quietly with one couple. Then two and three. As the music crescendos, four couples are spinning wildly without bumping into each other or flying into the crowd. The intimacy of the space mixed with the frenzy of the dancers is overwhelming. When one male dancer whipped around his partner and spun her almost violently downward, he caught her inches before she hit the hardwood floor. The crowd exhaled in one collective gasp at the combination of emotional abandon and physical precision. The world’s best tango partners dance together, and only together, for many years to reach this level. Rojo Tango feels like the purest result of that collaboration, unadorned with the theatrics and hubris surrounding the mass market tango shows elsewhere around town. You have to pay a little more here, but this is one of those times when it’s worth the splurge. You will never look at two people dancing the same way again.
Not only is this one of the 5 acoustically perfect buildings in the world but after a 5 year $100 million dollar restoration this is a beautiful glittering palace of the arts.
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