Young Argentine chefs trained in Europe’s top kitchens are returning home to reinvent their national cuisine. Dante Liporace, the el Bulli– trained chef of Tarquino is one of the leaders of the movement, known as La Nueva Cocina Argentina. His nine-dish tasting menu, La Secuencia de la Vaca, uses every part of the cow. In June, Antonio Soriano opens his anticipated Astor Manduque Porteño bistro. Photo courtesy of Tarquino. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.

First thing you do when you get off the plane in Buenos Aires? Go get some meat! When I think of Buenos Aires I think about 3 things: Alfajores, Street Art, and the amazing beef that I get to devour. My friend Travis and I headed over to Parrilla Miranda and completely indulged in “Ojo de Bife” and sipped on a fabulous bottle of Rututi (Malbec) wine. It's oine of the best places to eat, located in the Palermo Hollywood neighborhood. The piece of beef pictured above was cooked to perfection. The menu can be a bit overwhelming, mostly because there are so many different types of beef listed. The names refer to a specific cut of the cow, so trying to Google the name for an English translation might be difficult. Just trust me on this one and ask for the “Ojo the Bife”, or “Lomo” (cut with less fat). It’s a true orgasm in your mouth. I even returned the next day and ordered the same thing, but with potatoes instead of vegetables. Parrilla Miranda - Corner of Costa Rica & Fitz Roy in Palermo Hollywood, Buenos Aires http://parrillamiranda.com/ Photo by Ruddy Harootian

La Cabrera, situated in beautiful Palermo Viejo, will serve you the best steak of your life. Every meat-eating lover who goes to Argentina longs for this experience. Certainly order plenty of Mendoza Malbec for the table as you gorge on fancy sides and delicious steak 'till the wee hours of la mañaña.

Serving Thai and Filipino foods, kitchen Sunae calls with deviled flavors, fresh herbs and exotic spices, in a closed-door restaurant with authentic recipes of Southeast Asia in Buenos Aires.

Born in the immigrant quarter brothels of Buenos Aires, the Tango originally developed representing a duel between challengers for the favors of a woman. The early Tango was considered so obscene Pope Pius X actually banned the dance. The Tango is currently danced throughout the world and in 2009 UNESCO declared the dance part of the world's cultural heritage. With just six months of lessons under our belts, my girlfriend and I traveled to Buenos Aires to study and dance the Tango. We attended several Milongas (Tango events) in the city. These were not touristy shows but down and dirty dance halls where locals hang out to drink, socialize, and dance. We rapidly found our dance improving, particularly after a few glasses of wine! Throughout our travels we often heard "Tango is not just a dance, but a way of life."

If you have an evening flight out of Ezeiza Airport, you won't regret spending your last day in Argentina at Estancia Villa Maria. As we pulled up to the Tudor-style mansion on a Sunday morning, our hostess was waiting at the entrance to greet us. She provided us with an orientation and refreshments to start our "Country Day". First was horseback riding. It was risible. Enough said. We then decided to walk around the grounds. Our senses received a treat. We felt the cool, morning breeze which brought the scent of lavender from the surrounding bushes. Peace and tranquility was felt since we heard no noise. We admired the beauty of the architecture and the pristine maintenance of the grounds. We found a lone bench far from the house and we sat down to enjoy the serenity. Lunch time! We enjoyed our Argentine asado on the terrace, overlooking the pool and grounds. There was no limit imposed by our server on the meat, wine, and time. We ate, drank, and stayed until we were satisfied. After lunch, our hostess gave us a tour of the house, from the suites in the upper floors to the wines in the cellar. She explained that this house was designed by the same architect that designed the famous Llao Llao Hotel in the Bariloche district. After an afternoon dip in the pool and refreshing shower (toiletries provided), our day concluded with a light snack and freshly squeezed juices. I loved the chocolate brownies. Ezeiza Airport is only a twenty-minute drive from this estancia.

Argentinean ice cream resembles Italian gelato more than America ice cream. In the heart of San Telmo is Nonna Bianca who is run by a nonna, a tiny old woman. This is artesian ice cream with the local flavor of dulce de leche (5 different versions) and even mate (a local tea). It was a fun experience to try the ice cream but personally, I prefer Italian gelato or my favorite Mr. & Mrs. Miscellaneous ice cream from San Francisco (you must try this if you visit).

Caminito is about a 10 minute cab ride from San Telmo (the old charming district in Buenos Aires) in La Boca. It is a tourist trap - but it is hard not to be taken by the beautiful colors of the buildings. You won't see these colors throughout BA, just in this area so it is worth a short trip (you can walk it in 30 - 60 minutes easily). There are little restaurants so you could enjoy the atmosphere and have lunch (leave by dinner as the neighborhood supposedly gets a little rougher after dark). It is easy to get a cab to your next destination as they have someone there helping.

Buenos Aires is hands down one of my favorite cities in the world. The eclectic mix of architecture, culture and history is enough to keep one happy for a lifetime. But as with all great cities, after dark (especially in Buenos Aires) is when you get to see yet another side of an already multifaceted land. Simply walking the huge arcades as the sun goes down, with your same-but-now-different surroundings twinkling and glowing around you, will fill you with awe and wonder, and you just may want to keep on walking and walking and walking . . .

How many cities have turned a beautiful 1920's era cinema into a book shrine? This is one thing I love about BA. They are proud of their bookstores, which are all over the city. Locals sit quietly on the floor, in the cafe or even in balcony seats reading at El Ateneo. If anything go for the large selection of history books on Argentina - plenty to ready on Evita!

Buenos Aires is a city that brings creativity to life with urban art popping up everywhere. Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood-both sections of Palermo-are two of the most expressive. Graffiti adorns the paths to fun restaurants and trendy cafes that make up these barrios. It's not the sort of gritty, in your face graffiti you see in Brooklyn, rather it's much more full of color and wit.

Once home to Francis Ford Coppola, Jardin Escondido hotel in Buenos Aires’ hip Palermo Soho district is leafy, green and gorgeous; its seven bedrooms decorated with rich Argentine furnishings. Coppola lived here while writing the script for Tetro, but now the colour-drenched garden, luxurious living areas and seven bedrooms have opened as a small, stylish hotel. Jardin Escondido will definitely inspire you, whether you’re seeking your own Palme d’Or, or just peace, Palermo and a boutique base-camp.With three days' notice, the hotel can hire a parrilla master to assist in buying local meat and vegetables for a full Argentinian barbecue in the back garden. Palermo Soho is the heart of Buenos Aires’ shopping district. Browse the boutiques for unique clothes and shoes. Calma Chica (+54 11 4831 1818) is a haven for homewares, including cowhide rugs, tabletop trinkets and locally crafted leather bags. Don’t tell the Italians, but Argentina has mastered creamy, cool gelato. Taste for yourself at Persicco (+54 11 5480 0156), which scoops densely cocoa-packed dark chocolate and tart, icy lemon. With a cone in hand, stroll through the adjacent parks or over to the riverfront.

San Telmo has to be my favorite Barrio in Buenos Aires. It reminds me of another favorite in S.F., the Mission district. San Telmo's charm lies in its almost bohemian vibe, from the cobblestoned streets, to the fantastic street markets, to great restaurants and to the tango hotspot it's become. Impromptu tango performances can break out anywhere, anytime. I think some hostels even have a schedule of when these performances can happen. Watching this performance at a street corner, I was taken in by how these two dancers were oblivious to the crowds watching; they seemed completely lost in each other and the music. They imbibed the concept of being in the moment, a lesson that I took away from this experience.

Taxis in BA are not cheap. They start at 9.50 pesos (almost $2 USD) and then go up. From Palermo Hollywood to San Telmo it cost about 75 or 80 pesos ($16 USD) - and it takes a long time. Instead learn the subway system and go anywhere for a flat 2.50 pesos ($0.50 USD) - now that's what I'm talking about. It took less time for me to get from Palermo to San Telmo (Plaza de Mayo). But during rush hour, the trains get VERY crowded. So avoid the rush hour times (and besides, you're on vacation, you shouldn't be up that early!).

Visiting the Recoleta Cemetery is both beautiful and eerie. The scared space is a giant maze of ostentatious tombs tucked in Buenos Aires' most charming neighborhood. Rows of giant tombs are guarded by angels and lions, and more humble ones adorned with flowers. The eerie ones have broken windows through which you can see coffins and dead plants. The cemetery is very symbolic of family being a cornerstone of Argentine culture.

Before arriving to Buenos Aires, my aunt told me about this beautiful, vintage café located just steps away from la Casa Rosada. This coffeehouse has been a cultural icon since its door opening in 1858. Great artists and intellectuals like Carlos Gardel and Jorge Luis Borges would gather here on a regular basis. So when I was on the neighborhood, I decided to grab some coffee and just relax after a long day of sightseeing.When I got there, I was surprised by the people waiting in line outside the street. It was only a matter of 10 minutes when a waiter called my name and walked me to my table. Once inside, you can appreciate the Belle Epoque decor and the french atmosphere of a café in Paris. There is also a side gallery and a small stage for tango performers; where every Tuesday night you can catch a performance. I ordered a cappuccino and a chocolate alfajor--which to my surprise was the best one I tried in Buenos Aires. Even though you have to wait to be seated and its frequently crowded by tourists, you should definitely go. It really is a special place in which you travel in time and get nostalgic by the lives of the older porteños.

The street art scene in Buenos Aires is always evolving and so are the artists. MART is a 25 year old artist who started doing graffiti at the age of 12. By now he’s a season pro, making pieces like the one pictured above by freehand. MART’s precision and polished technique with a spray can is uncanny. His whimsical and friendly pieces make you want to jump into his world. Catch this on tour with Graffitimundo! Photo by Ruddy Harootian

Pretty much everywhere you turn in Buenos Aires, some couple has broken out into tango and attracted a crowd. To be fair, this spectacle is mostly for tourists but no where in the world does anyone else do this. As kitschy as it may appear, it's actually quite sexy and sensual, as the tango is. But tango is no joke in this city. Dance halls abound for the many who take this sultry dance very seriously. I imagine the street expos must belittle their craft in some way. Still, to watch a couple get all steamy right in the middle of the street, at the drop of a hat, is truly an Argentine phenomenon.