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The sustainably designed andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge on the edge of the NamibRand Nature Reserve captures the raw beauty of the world’s oldest living desert. The otherworldliness of the environment has been consciously translated into every aspect of the experience. The off-grid design factors in the extreme climate and harsh elements, and the desert’s forms, colors and textures are reflected in sculptural stone and steel lines that give way to soft, organic shapes. Throughout, glass walls slide away to amplify the big-sky views. The 10 guest suites are self-sufficient, solar-powered private retreats, each generating ample energy to run on photovoltaic power for everything from the AC and the deep swimming pools to the water harvesting and recycling systems.


Activities include climbing the world’s highest dunes at Sossusvlei or e-biking along gravel trails to caves with rock art by the desert’s earliest inhabitants. Back at the lodge, dishes that reflect Namibia’s cultural history include venison and Kalahari truffles and fresh seafood from the Atlantic Ocean. With close to zero light pollution, the Namib is one of the best dark sky locations in the Southern Hemisphere. The best way to end any evening is in the lodge’s observatory. You can also fall asleep counting stars, thanks to a skylight above your bed.

Navigating the dunes of the Namib Sand Sea is a true test of a skilled driver. Harry Kirchner, the owner of the Windhoek-based outfitter Offroad Tours & Safaris, offers both guided and self-drive 4x4 safari options in the area. Our group opted for a guided five-night camping adventure and were lucky enough to have Harry as one of our drivers, as well as his two larger-than-life friends, Cannabis and O.J. As Harry would say, the only “proper” way to experience the desert is “bushman” style which means plenty of whiskey, schnapps, and sleeping under the stars. Reaching each night’s camp site was a true adventure as our 4x4 sped, full throttle, over skyscraper-sized sand dunes. It was inevitable that one or more trucks didn’t make it all the way over so another truck would have to hook up a rope and tow it up and over. Going downhill was more thrilling than riding a roller coaster.

“It’s not even a town or a village, don’t call it that; it’s more of a pit-stop, really.” Solitaire, Namibia, the pit-stop Moose McGregor calls home, contains nothing more than a general store, a small lodge, his bakery, and the only gas station for many, many miles. This makes Solitaire an inevitable pit-stop for travelers driving to Sossusvlei from Swakopmund or Windhoek. Sadly, Moose passed away in early 2012. His legendary apple strudel lives on. Solitaire worth a visit even if your vehicle has a full tank.

Don’t let the eerie name fool you. Namibia’s Hoanib Skeleton Coast, a 310-mile stretch of sand scattered with animal bones and shipwrecks, is home to plenty of life: the Himba bushmen, fur seals, and desert-adapted flora whose sole water source is the morning fog that rolls in off the Atlantic. Getting here, however, is tricky. The shoreline, which is a national park, fringes the Namib Desert—where some of the world’s tallest dunes can be found—and is accessible only by tiny plane. Willing to wing it? Stay at Wilderness Safaris’ new eight-tent camp where, when not relaxing on your own deck, you can take to the sky for a tour of the coast. From $565. This appeared in the October 2014 issue.

Joe’s Beerhouse is a must visit place for a hearty dinner in Windhoek. Lanterns illuminate the partially open-air dining area. Locals and foreigners mingle and drink craft Camelthorn Brewing Company beers while sat around picnic tables and makeshift barrel tables with wooden tops. A patchwork roof covers some of the boma encircles the dining area and the crowd is always a lively. The menu is a mix of German and Namibian dishes, so whether you’re in the mood for a good bratwurst or more exotic eland steak, this is where you’ll want to go. This restaurant is the perfect place to celebrate the start or finish of a great safari adventure.

No shopping trip in Windhoek is complete without a stop at the Craft Cafe. A small brewery and warehouse space has been converted into a venue for shopping and dining, featuring many local artisan products from around the country. On the top floor, the restaurant Craft Cafe serves an excellent Western-style breakfasts and large mugs of coffee at a reasonable price. Sit on the balcony overlooking the complex for a dose of fresh air while you dine. A small, secure parking lot is available to park if you have your vehicle with you.