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This long, lovely stretch of silver-gray volcanic sand is a rarity on Dominica’s rocky coastline. Locals enjoy it for the warm, calm waters and Sunday beach barbecue scene—not to mention the toilets, showers, concession stands, and nearby restaurants. However, it’s just a half-hour drive north of the cruise ship terminal in Roseau, so the crowds can heat up when the big vessels dock. Steer clear then, if you can.

A smart space on one of the city’s most attractive residential streets is home to MeroToro, chef Jair Téllez’s paean to the surf-and-turf delights that constitute Baja California cuisine. The vibe is warm and easygoing even as the menu steers diners toward less-conventional selections, on a revised-daily bill of fare, that insist on organic, hormone-free, and as local as possible (sharing absolutely allowed). Seasonal vegetables and Mexico-only herbs are always part of the offering, and yummies like seafood dishes with aguachile, grilled shellfish, a bone-marrow risotto, and a signature fall-off-the-bone pork jowl are big hits whenever they turn up on the menu.

The latest dining room by star chef Jair Téllez (of MeroToro fame), Amaya reflects its proprietor’s belief that quality ingredients speak for themselves, with little need for overdramatic presentations or reliance on technological gimmickry. This translates to scrumptious bistro classics, skewing Mediterranean perhaps, that are by no means afraid to go rich. Regulars order grilled seafood like grouper from the ever-changing menu, or heartier indulgences like slow-cooked lamb or a mammoth pork chop. The attractive dining room features huge casement windows that open to the street; inside, gorgeous tile floors and a bold, colorful mural warm the otherwise stark, industrial decor.