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If you’re planning a trip to Korea in the fall, mark your calendar--October 9th is “Hangul Day"--one of the few national holidays in the world to celebrate a writing system. Beneath the 20-ton bronze statue of King Sejong the Great--who spearheaded this ‘new’ script--is an underground museum where you can learn more about this unique alphabet. Invented in the mid 15th century, Hangul (also spelled Hangeul in English) was conceived as a way to scientifically depict phonetic structure and to encourage mass literacy. Until then, the Korean educated classes used Chinese characters for writing, virtually guaranteeing that only the aristocracy could afford the lengthy education needed to become literate. According to the 1446 promulgation: “A wise man can acquaint himself with them (the letters of Hangul) before the morning is over; a stupid man can learn them in the space of ten days.” Seriously--the logical structure makes Hangul the easiest Asian script for Westerners to learn... To get here via subway: Jonggak Station (Subway Line 1), Exit 1, walk towards Gwanghwamun; Gyeongbokgung Palace Station (Subway Line 3), Exit 6, walk towards Sejong-ro; Gwanghwamun Station (Subway Line 5), Exit2, direct access from station.

Spelling Korean food in English is notoriously difficult: gimbab, kimbop, kimbab, kimbap, gimbob--all are different renderings of the seaweed-wrapped rice-veggie-and-meat-rolls that make up Seoul‘s most convenient quick meal. The streetside stalls are plentiful and cheap, but sometimes it’s worth tucking into an alleyway to find a more finely crafted version. Thus, “The Box,” on the ground floor of the building (“SK Hub”) that’s on top of the Anguk subway station, just east of the Jongno police station. Go down the alley between the two buildings and look for the sign on the left. About halfway between Changdeokgung Palace and Gwanghwamun Plaza, this is one tiny eatery--nowhere to sit, just a counter where you can stand; most get their lunches to go. The kimbap are creative--blanched and seasoned garlic stems! wild mushrooms!--and the design of the packaging is cheerful. The upper floors of the building where “The Box” is located house a number of studios available for short or longer-term rental. (Think airbnb.) If you end up staying here, “The Box” is an ideal source for a quick-but-well-done lunch to take upstairs to enjoy from your room-with-a-view. Vegetable-wraps and ‘ddeok-bok-i’ (stir-fried rice-cakes in a sweet-and-spicy red pepper sauce) are also on the menu.

This “Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven” was once the heart of Korea. It was the power center of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897), and was originally built in 1395—some new digs for a new dynasty. Like the Forbidden City in Beijing, the palace is a complex of buildings—a throne hall, the king’s living quarters and more—a sort of city inside a city, accented by gardens and pavilions. The Japanese flattened the place in the 1590s, and the site remained a ruin until a complete reconstruction in 1867 brought back more than 500 buildings. At the Gwanghwamun Gate, soldiers, beautifully costumed in red robes, still perform the changing of the guard. Seoul has other palaces, but this is the one to see if your time in town is limited.

No matter where travel takes me, my favorite way to begin a day is with a cup of cappuccino accompanied with a buttery treat. On my recent trip to Seoul, I bookmarked Terarosa Coffee in Gwanghwamun and was blown away by the flawless coffee and pastries. Terarosa Coffee has been in business since 2002 and has about 10 locations in Seoul. The Gwanghwamun branch has a coffee bar, a bakery, and a sizable section of coffee table books. The interior felt new yet rustic with vintage coffee equipment and ephemeras displayed throughout the three seating areas. I had the perfect cappuccino with just the right amount of espresso, milk and creamy microfoam. The baked goods, like kouign-amann and canele, are made fresh daily along with a small lunch menu. I definitely would stay near a Terarosa on my next trip to Seoul, to fulfill my morning cravings for coffee with a Parisian pastry.