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If you haven’t tried the Philippine Lechon, it’s basically roasted suckling pig. The pig is roasted whole over open fire for hours and it’s a favorite celebration food for Filipinos. The best part of the lechon of course, is the crispy skin, which is also the most challenging to serve. Folks would often fight to have a piece of it, but it’s never enough for everyone :-) The traditional version is simple and the meat is dipped in sweet pork liver sauce. I used to remember after every party we have, my mom would take the leftovers including the bones and make it into a stew called “paksiw” with the same liver sauce for the next day’s meal. When you head to Cebu though, the lechon there is roasted with herbs and spices that make the lechon meat a little bit saltier than the traditional version. They are eaten as is, or with some vinegar and chilis. The same crispy skin is what people enjoy too. As people’s taste change over the years, the traditional lechon has also evolved. Today, you can have a lechon with just the prime lechon belly meat without the bones and pig head served in front of you :-) And now, they even made a spicy version to it. Somehow, this makes the skin extra crispy and that’s what we all love about the lechon. Don’t miss this, even Anthony Bourdain had to try it :-) Innovation brings new tastes, but I think people love traditions so maybe I’d go back to my original whole lechon, to which I associate with happy eating and happy celebrations! :)

Overview

The spot, where in 1521 Portugeuse explorer Ferdinand Magellan placed his cross to claim the islands for Spain and named it the Philippines in honor of King Philip II. When you look closely, the original cross is encased in a Tindalo wood cross. It was done to preserve and protect the original cross from people who would chip off pieces for souvenirs or according to some that the cross possessed miraculous healing powers.

Arriving alone and hungry in the Philippines, I checked into my hotel and immediately asked for a dinner recommendation. After some thought by the staff, I was directed to Zubuchon for some authentic Filipino food; but not just any food: Lechon. And not even just lechon, but what Anthony Bourdain suggested is the “best pig...ever.” This perfectly prepared pig keeps its moisture generously covered and insulated with a layer of pork belly fat. Unfortunately, for some reason, I was not able to purchase a piece of pork less than ½ kilo. So, that is what I ordered. Perhaps I should have given the menu a closer look and ordered from the selection of “Fast Meals” that appear to be better suited for one. Before I ran off with my ½ kilo of pig, the server suggested I also try a Kamias Shake which paired with the pork better than any wine pairing I have had with a meal! The tart, but not quite sour, beverage brought out all the nuances of the lechon. Back at my hotel, I was unable to stop myself from eating all ½ kilo of meat - and heading to bed that evening completely stuffed. Try the lechon in the Philippines. And make sure you have Zubuchon at least once!

Malapascua, a tiny island in the Visayan Sea north of Cebu, is well-known for its thresher-shark cleaning station, where divers gather daily to see these beautiful creatures ascend from below to be cleaned by fish before returning to deeper waters. Reef sharks can be seen here, too. What fewer visitors know, however, is that behind the strip of resorts that line Bounty Beach is a traditional village. There are quaint shops and restaurants as well as a large church, and the people are wonderfully friendly and inviting. It’s a great peek into real Filipino island life, meaning Malapascua is a worthwhile stop even if you aren’t interested in the sharks.

Bantayan Island’s fine white sand beaches and clear light blue waters are as enchanting as far busier Boracay, minus the noise and go go go night life. The island’s Ogtong Cave Resort offers a well-kept landscaped garden, a pool, and individual cottages, but the real draw is a cave below the resort grounds, where you can explore and wade in the waters. Rooms at the resort are simple and comfortable. The resort offers doubles up to family rooms with plenty of room for kids. There are two pools on the ground, with one reserved for resort guests. The usual jump off point is Cebu, a one-hour flight away from Metro Manila. You then take an almost 3-hour bus ride from North Terminal to Hagnaya for a 75-minute boat to Santa Fe, Bantayan. You can also opt to take a private van or taxi for a more comfortable and faster ride. Don’t be put off by the long travel time--the beach, cave, and everything else at the resort are well worth what it takes to get there.

Everything changed when I found the skull. Bobbing softly in the surf, nestled between two blackened boulders, the unmistakable visage of a bleached skull stared at me and I stared back. I thought it must be a monkey, or a canine or some unknown inhabitant of this mystical island; as I waded out into the water for a closer look, the identity became unmistakable – this was a human skull, perfect in proportion and obvious in distinction. While I pondered what I should do next – this was the first time I had found a human skull, after all – an old woman carrying a heavy load of banana leaves came out of the jungle and asked me what I had found. I explained to her the circumstances of my discovery; she told me that by finding the skull and returning it to its proper resting place, I was sure to be blessed with good luck for the duration of my stay on the island. This is not your typical island travel shot - but Malapascua is not your typical island. You owe it to yourself to visit this tiny spec of real estate if you ever find yourself in the Pacific.