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One of the delights of Valparaíso is exploring the colorful hillsides that ramble down towards the sea. Take the century-old funicular elevators Ascensor Concepción (Turri) or El Peral near the main plaza, constructed between 1883 and 1911. Once high into the hills of Cerro Concepción & Alegre, explore the meandering alleyways and cobblestone streets on foot. There are boutiques, cafés, mom-and-pop shops, old school bakeries, bars, restaurants, art galleries, and church bells tolling. It often feels more like a small village than a city. Climb up and down the many staircases often lined with bright graffiti. In the distance, the bay gleams in sunlight and the busy port never tires. At dusk, the lights twinkle like fairylight. Grab a table at a spot like Café Turri for a view of the sunset and a cocktail.

In a city built on steep terrain, it is a wonderful thing to have the option to ride up and down the hillsides rather than walk. In 1883, Valparaíso’s first funicular (ascensor), the hydraulic Ascensor Concepción, made it unnecessary for locals to climb hundreds of stairs every day. Today, about 15 of these little vehicles, most using electric power, are in operation; passengers ride for a small fee. The most popular one—and the one with the best views—is the Funicular Cerro Artillería. The Ascensor Concepción Prat is the oldest.