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Mayan archaeological sites, endless watersports, and authentic cuisine make this Mexican destination a must.

In early April, I spent a week on a yoga retreat at Amansala in Tulum, Mexico. We had four hours of yoga and Pilates practice a day, and I spent the rest of my time on the beach, swimming in the ocean, reading books (I finished Gabrielle Hamilton’s excellent memoir, Blood, Bones, and Butter), drinking coconut juice, and snacking on delicious homemade tortillas, salad, salsas, and guacamole. At night we ventured out to explore, and discovered a wonderful new open-air restaurant called Hartwood, where I wish I could eat every night.

While not as large as other ancient Mayan cities in the region, Tulum draws in visitors for its stunning setting of centuries-old temples perched on a cliff by the Caribbean Sea. You’ll pass a large market with souvenirs, a casual Mexican restaurant, and even a Starbucks before reaching the entrance, where a train can take you to the site if you’re not up for the 10-minute walk. It’s advisable to hire a guide to fully understand each structure’s significance and the history behind the ruins; informative signage is all but nonexistent. Don’t forget to bring your swimsuit, as the site encompasses a white-sand beach with soothing waves and beautiful rock formations that’s reached by a long wooden staircase.

Running three miles along the Tulum coastline, this massive beach has some of the Riviera Maya’s best conditions: soft white sand, waves tame enough for a calm swim, plus incredible shades of turquoise water. The stretch is chockablock with restaurants and beach clubs offering on-the-sand food and drinks. Along the main coastal road that runs parallel to the shore, you’ll find rustic cabins and luxurious hippie-style hotels with plenty of amenities, whether you’re looking for a bed for the night or just somewhere to grab lunch. After dark, Tulum Beach has some of the region’s best stargazing due to its secluded location and absence of city lights.

You’ve likely seen the main attraction of Tulum in a travel ad, a postcard, or a friend’s Instagram feed, but there’s still nothing like witnessing first hand the only Maya site that overlooks the Caribbean Sea. Standing before the 13th-century structures will leave you feeling awed by the Maya’s archaeological achievement and its resilience—still standing after being hundreds of years of being buffeted by salty water and wind. True, it’s the main attraction here, but it’s not the only one. With a quirky backstory and a lot of international press, more and more foodies are making their way to Hartwood, a restaurant that lacks electricity. The chef prepares all dishes—made with local ingredients—on an open fire.

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