I was first there in 1993 - and it was impossible to visit the temples before 9 am or after 4 due to the rapidly changing security situation, so u couldnt see the sunrise or sunset, or visit Bantei Srei. now, the temples are very busy at dusk and dawn, though you can find some peace if you choose the pond on the right side of Angkor Wat (several hundred crowd the left pond to catch the sun rising behind the spires; it is not the nicest experience with people shouting at each other to avoid tripping over tripods and people swearing when their shots get ruined) As soon as the crowds thin out after sunrise, it is a good time to see the inside of Angkor Wat; the tour groups havent arrived and the light is still great for fotos. afternoon is good for most temples - most tour buses are back in town for lunch. 

Posted Dec 17, 2010

Re Time of Day:  It covers a lot of territory so, with an autorickshaw driver, you can skip crowds at the busy times by seeing a more remote spot.  My suggestion doesn't involve what time of day you are there:  Have your driver pull over, just before you enter, and give yourself the luxury of being simply overwhelmed.  I've visited spiritual and archeological sites in many parts of the world, but there was something about Angkor Wat that took my breath away.

Re What Else to See/Do:  An absolute must:  Visit Kantha Bopha Children's Hospital (http://www.beat-richner.ch/).  Donate blood (they need it badly), then go back for Dr. Beat Richner's Saturday night cello concert, and learn about all of the challenges he faces in trying to provide modern medical treatment to the Cambodians, who so badly need it.  I think he's one of the most amazing humanitarians, quietly working away in his little corner of the world.

The blind massage school is good (and easy to find, just ask around).  Perhaps not  best for germaphobics (but if you were, why would you be in Cambodia?).  Had a pretty good massage at the Red Cross, too, but it was a bit disconcerting to strip down in front of my male masseuse (who sat in the corner smoking a cigarette).  Interesting experience though -- and I love those!

Posted Dec 18, 2010

Dawn!  It is amazing to see the sun come up over Angkor.  Though I would say that you'll never escape the tourists, not even at dawn, since so many come for sunrise.  I was there at sundown as well the previous day, and it was just as crowded.  It was a little quieter in the morning - since everyone is still a little groggy and the atmosphere is a more of hushed feel. 

Posted Dec 18, 2010

Dawn is beautiful. There are so many beautiful temples to see, you can't just see Angkor Wat. Take a few 2"x2" passport size photos with you. You'll probably have to purchase a visitor pass (if you're visiting more than 1 day) and you can avoid the charges for having your photo taken if you bring some with you.

Also, some of the temples are haunts for local kids who will try so very hard to sell you things (post cards, t-shirts, handicrafts) and won't leave you alone until you buy something from them. Bring pencils, etc to give to them to deter them so you can enjoy your time there.

Posted Dec 20, 2010

I was there in November, and was overwhelmed by the number of tourists at sunset.  It was still an experience, just not the one I expected.  Compared to that, sunrise is quiet.  There will be tourists, but it's much more peaceful.  Definitely buy your pass the night before so you get in easily before dawn.  Siem Reap is fine, is more of a base town than a destination.  We went to Phnom Penh and loved it.  Completely different, but still a worthwhile visit, especially to spend time at the Killing Fields and get an appreciation of Cambodia's history.

Posted Dec 24, 2010

Unfortunately you won't be able to avoid the swarms of tourists. I wouldn't recommend sunset, when I was there in 97 there were too many people for the nearby hill to hold. When I was there last month, we skipped sunset. Sunrise is well worth it even though there were 100-200 people there. If you really want in with only a few people I would recommend right after the sun breaks over it or early afternoon when it is hot.

I would really recommend Angkor Wat, Ta Prom, Angkor Thom (specifically the Bayon), Banteay Srei and Kbal Spean for the ruin highlights. Go to the landmine museum if you go to Banteay Srei.

While I was dreading going to Pub Street on the most recent trip as Siem Reap was asleepy little town with nearly no tourist infrastructure in the '90s, it isn't that bad if you accept it for what it is.

Posted Dec 17, 2010

I would say dawn or dusk.

Posted Dec 17, 2010

I agree that you won't be able to avoid the swarms of tourists. And when we went, in October, there was a lot of scaffolding around the temple. So don't worry about getting the perfect photo of the temple reflected in the pool at sunrise -- that's where all the tourists will be.  And you can buy that picture on a postcard. Instead, go inside the temple -- we had it almost to ourselves for an hour or so. Went back later with a guide to learn more about what we had seen, but the experience of being there in the morning was wonderful. 

One hint, though -- be sure to buy your multi-day ticket the day before.

Also, for the less crowded experience - go to Baeng Malea -- think lara croft tombraider on steroids. It's off the beaten path - the temple has not yet been completely reclaimed from the jungle. Pretty amazing.

Have a wonderful time.

Posted Dec 23, 2010

go to some of the sites a ways out of town like Phnom Kulen and Beng Mealea. Beng Mealea in particular is an amazing ruined temple site still largely unrestored and not many people go there because it is 90 minutes to 2 hours away over some rough roads. Make sure you wear good hiking type shoes though for climbing over all the rocks. I was in Teva sandals and darn near fell off.

Posted Jan 02, 2011

pack a lunch- go at sunrise and stay till sunset!  Tourist come in swarms but if you wait them out you can have that magic alone moment where you feel like it is yours.

Posted Jan 03, 2011

Definitely give Angkor more than a single day. But I know no way to avoid the crowds. It's one of the world's wonders after all. After the monsoon would be the time of year. So fall. Everybody who says to see it at sunrise is also right, but the complex is huge so that's just the few early morning minutes to watch the sun come up over the main temple. You can see classic dance in Siem Reap hotels, which is worthwhile. Good restaurant if you can find it is Khmer Kitchen. 

Posted Jan 03, 2011