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Thanks to Afar nation for the new years recommendations… I decided to stick with Machu Picchu… any recommendations to eat, drink and see in Lima and Cusco, Peru?

Posted on Dec 15, 2010

19 Answers

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Oh yes... In Lima stay in the bohemian, by-the-sea barrio of Barranco (it has MUCH more character than Miraflores -- check out the street art) and is a nightlife center (everything from cheesy big clubs to small jazz venues). When I'm not staying mis amigos limeños I stay at Barranco Backpackers Inn there -- oceanview dorm room on the 2nd floor!

In Cusco stay in San Blas, another bohemian 'hood up the hill from touristy Plaza de Armas. There are various hostels and hotels (the one I stayed in before renting a room from a family is now closed but I always hear good things about Casa de la Gringa). San Blas still has a lot of tourists, but there are plenty of locals, too. Go to Nuna Machay up there for tasty food from chef/owner José and the patio (complete with oudoor heaters!) at Pachapapa is a must. Hear live music at Siete Angelitos, check out the shops (Pulga has some one-of-a-kind clothing), and chill in the plazoleta. And if you're down with yoga, Reiki and/or massage, check out my friend's place -- Healing House at 560 Qanchipata (take Carmen Alto off of Plaza San Blas then hang a left at the corner where Juanito's -- great sammiches! -- is and it's the last door on the left before you get to the steps. Disfrutate!

Posted Dec 16, 2010

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Hi!

Lima: Astrid y Gaston and Pescados Capitales.  Also El Mar.

Cuzco: La Cicciolina - very nice restaurant.  Have a dinner there after you're done with 4 day trek to Macchu Picchu eating nothing but campfire food.  

Let me know if you need any other recommendations, and have fun! 

Posted Dec 16, 2010

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Drink plenty of Mate de Coca for the altitude headaches. And there's natural, volcanic thermal bath in Aguascaliente just below Macchu Picchu that's very nice to relax after hiking all day at the ruins. I spent the night there, but if I did it again... I would have spent longer in that small town and cut off a couple days in Cuzco. 

Posted Dec 22, 2010

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Skip, did you stay at the Sanctuary Lodge or in Aguascaliente? Is there an advantage to staying right in Machu Picchu?

Posted on Jan 04, 2012

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Ed, I stayed in a cheap hotel/posada type place in Aguascaliente. The thermal baths were worth staying there for, but one advantage to staying at the lodge is that you could likely get into the ruins before all the other tourists and stay a bit longer too. If you stay in Aguascaliente you have to catch one of the little buses that goes up and down from the town to the entrance. You could walk it , but it's a pretty good hike especially after hiking all around the ruins all day. If I even go there again, I would likely just stay in Aguascaliente where there are more places to eat and you can sit in the thermal bath drinking a beer they bring right up to you while you're soaking.

Posted on Jan 04, 2012

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If you have some time in Cuzco before you head to Machu Picchu check out these ruins: Moray, Saqsaywaman, and Pisaq. There are a ton of places to eat at in Cuzco, but you MUST eat at the "Fallen Angel" it's an experience incorporated into a meal. I also really enjoyed the alpaca plate at Victor Victoria. For a relaxing night or if it's raining, I would order dessert and coffee and sit on the balcony over looking the center of town at of one of the many cafe's in the Plaza de Armas. 

Posted Dec 23, 2010

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If I'm not too late in replying, I highly recommend Chi Cha por Gastón Acurio in Cusco.  I went with a large party, and there wasn't a plate on the table that wasn't amazing.  I actually ended up going twice, the second time with just a few others, and as it was my last day in Peru, I tried the cuy (guinea pig) and it was great.  Thought if I was going to try it, it might as well have been there!  I'm certainly glad I did.  

If you make it to Chi Cha, I'd suggest the pear torte for dessert.  It takes about 20 minutes to prepare, so order it mid to end of your entree, but it's worth the wait!  We got it both times we went.

Enjoy Peru!!

Posted Dec 25, 2010

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Nope perfect timing. I leave in the morning. I will letyou know how it is

Posted on Dec 25, 2010

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I also agree with the Miraflores recommendations in Lima - we had a fantastic meal at La Mar (the cebiche sampler was simply incredible - photo attached).

As far as drinks go, you should definitely try a pisco sour, pretty much every place makes their own version of the national drink. The corn-based beer, Cusquena, is also tasty and refreshing.

In Cusco we had dinner at a place on the Main Square (Plaza de Armas) called Papillion which was good. We did not try cuy (guinea pig) but had alpaca several times and really enjoyed it. Kind of like a mix between pork and venison.

If you don't have a hostel reservation yet for Machu Picchu, I would check out Hotel Wiracocha - it was affordable, comfortable and centrally located. (photo attached).

Enjoy your trip!

Posted Dec 28, 2010

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i loved the pisco sour!!!  and now i am more excited about the alpaca... only problem is that they canceled our flight this am... so hopefully we get out tomorrow.

 

rhs

Posted on Dec 28, 2010

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Was just there in September!  In Lima, you should definitely spend some time in Barranco - very bohemian feel to it.  If you want to drink a Pisco Sour where it was invented, mosey on over to the Maury Hotel Rojo Bar in downtown Lima.  Worth it to go to Huaca Pucilana for a drink or dinner - beautiful Inca ruin there and the restaurant is RIGHT next to it!  I had great ceviche at Tanta in Miraflores - nice location right off the beach.  Agree with the others about Chi Cha in Cuzco - didn't get a chance to eat there, but heard it's fantastic!  You'll be blown away by Machu Picchu - pictures don't do it justice.  If you're up for a challenge, it's worth it to get up there EARLY to be among the 400 who get to conquer Huanyu Picchu (see picture) - amazing view from up there!  Enjoy -

Posted Dec 30, 2010

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Do you need to stay at the Sanctuary Lodge in order to make the early morning trek to Huanyu Picchu?

Posted on Jan 04, 2012

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Not at all, Ed -- unless you have an aversion to getting up REALLY early, that is! I stayed in Aguas Calientes, got in line at the bus stop about an hour before the first bus would take off (some crazy hour - 3 am? 4 am?) and I think we got on something like bus #6 or 7 which put us among the first 400 who wanted to climb Huanyu Picchu. I have to say that climbing to the top and seeing Machu Picchu from that vantage points is one of the top highlights among all of the travel I've done. Good luck and report back!

Posted on Jan 04, 2012

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We stayed at La Cabana Machu Picchu in Aguas Calientes. It wasn't that great, and we had to climb to the top of the hill. Our daughter stayed at Pequenas Casita. It was much more convenient. I actually did two days at MP and enjoyed them both. I also did Huayna Picchu at 10am, and it was fantastic! I had to take 90 minutes to get to the top and 45 to come down. Food in Cuzco was world-class. We went to Cicciolina twice. The tapas menu was very nice and a bargain at roughly US$2.50 a plate. The quinoa-crusted shrimp salad was great. Limo had great food, too. The roasted cuy (guinea pig) at Inka Grill was delicious. It was huge! We could have easily shared one entree with a salad. Greens had the best alpaca steak in my opinion, but everything in Cuzco was great. La Bondiet had good beef empanadas and smooth lattes. Brujas de Cachiche in Lima was also very good. Cuzco felt very intimate; the people were very friendly.

Posted on Jun 13, 2012

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Lima...LOTS of good places.


Cusco...try Chi Cha.  EXCELLENT with a well known national chef, but very reasonable prices!!

Just returned from Peru recently.  Let me know if you have questions.  LOVED our hotels!!

Posted Dec 15, 2010

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Lima's beautiful. I was there on a brief trip for work, but the one thing I absolutely can't forget is the chupe de camarones, a kind of shrimp and egg stew that was absolutely wonderful. That, and the plentiful pisco sours, make it hard to stop thinking about Peruvian cuisine... Enjoy!

Posted Dec 17, 2010

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Have a Pisco Sour in the Hotel Bolivar in Lima -- right on the Plaza de Armas -- classic and kinda run down but takes you back to the 20s. Eat lots of ceviche. I adored pulpo (octopus) at Fresca (I think that's the name) in Miraflores. My group had our doubts, but it was the only dish worth a second -- smoky with rosemary flavor. In Cuzco have pizza at Chez Maggy (the owner is a hoot, also one in Aguas Calientes), go to Jack's for comfort food. IMHO Cuy (guinea pig) and alpaca aren't worth it -- greasy and dry, respectively.

Posted on Jan 15, 2011

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I'd recommend being adventurous and trying alpaca and guinea pig--I was reluctant at first, but I ended up really liking both!

Posted Dec 17, 2010

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In Lima go to Miraflores and the Lago Mar district. Its a complex of restos and shops by the beach. Fun scene and amazing view overlooking the ocean. If you love ceviche there is the famous La Mar restaurant as well as Pescados Capitales on Avenida La Mar. The best sea food in the world. 

For Cuzco, just stay close to the Plaza de Armas, its the main square and has great rests, bars, and hotels. When the weathers nice the locals and tourist congregate here and its just lovely.

Posted Dec 17, 2010

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Cuzco has Mama Gaia's which was a super fun traveller dance party place... but all the food I ate there was really good... at its worst is was like average american/continental level.

And while not completely helpful, I stayed at a place called El Patio? in Lima, and they had an amazing home-made mango jam.

Machu Picchu is fantastic,  and if you can swing a trip up there at night (requiring a special ticket, and a little bit of negotiations with the guard llamas (Bring a flashlight/headlamp -- OSHA didn't put up railings!) it is really worth it.  Also Huayna Picchu is worth making the climb.  Set aside a few hours, and bring a bag of coca-leaves (with lime/rock powder- its dry, light, and doesn't require tea, and is really much more effective than tea) to alleviate any altitude sickness between the Lima (sea level) and Cuzco (not sea level) or on any climbs.

Posted Dec 26, 2010

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Lima - Stay in Miraflores neighborhood or Barranco. Miraflores is safe -- lots of outdoor bars and cafes. Barranco right by the water and lots of Bohemian shops and cafes.

 

Cusco - Restaurant not to miss is http://www.cicciolinacuzco.com around the corner from the main Plaza de Armas -- and the Cathedral. Recommend the alpaca steak.

Here stay in the San Blas neighborhood - a 5 minute walk to the main Plaza. 5 min walk to the art gallery lanes. Super centralized to all the main sites. Lots of small boutique shops in this area.

 

Tours: Do the all day tour which visits 4 or 5 ruins all throughout the valley. Dont forget to buy your all day ticket passes at the city tourist office near the main plaza. They sell day passes or week long passes.

Posted Dec 27, 2010

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In Cusco, check out a second story cafe overlooking Plaza de Armas. It's called Trotamundos. Also - be sure and tour Sacsayhuaman (pronounced sexy woman) which is right outside of Cusco and also offers a great view of the city. In Lima, a really nice restaurant I ate at last year is called Rosa nautica. It's in Miraflores on the water in the La Costa Verde area. Have fun!

Posted Jan 01, 2011

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Monastaria Restaurant (spelling???)

Posted Jan 03, 2011

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Go to the Inka Grill at the Plaza de Armas in Cusco, and try the alpaca. It's amazing!

Posted Jan 13, 2011

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I agree with Miraflores & Barranco in Lima - lots of cool bars & restos to choose from.  In Cusco, I can be a little more specific. There is a hotel about 8 blocks from the Plaza de Armas called Los Apus which is very nice and a bit away from the bustle of the Plaza. Very near the Plaza is a nice little restaurant called A Mi Manera - I think both have websites, I know the hotel does. If you're looking for a tour company, try Culturas Peru - very professional & experienced & fun. www.culturasperu.com

Posted Jan 16, 2011

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Lima: We found a wonderful B&B in Miraflores: Casa San Martin. Affordable, great free pastries, coffee and fresh fruit every morning in the courtyard. Best restaurant by far was in Barranco, Canta Rana. Ceviche was the best, broiled scallops with parmesean and chiche morada.

Cuzco: We stayed at the very afforable and friendly Hotel Ruinas right off the main Plaza. Walk up a steep hill to the boho neighborhood of San Blas, any restaurant is fabulous, eat adobo or if you're feeling adventurous CUY! ( guinea pig) I couldn't do it- had one as a child. :)

Posted May 17, 2012

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Just got back last week. Really loved Canta Rana in Barranco - Super local, very authentic fun place to have beers and watch soccer. get the calamari!

Posted Jun 23, 2012

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