In a city like Lisbon, where it's easy to find a classic pastry shop, this one is named for the famous French palace outside Paris and dates from 1922. It has a monumental interior—with glass, mirrors, and art nouveau details.
The waiters wear white shirts, gray vests, and long white aprons. Regular clients are well-dressed old ladies who simply like to come for a chat, a tea, and a cake.
Pastry is the main business. You'll find a wide variety of cakes and cookies like duchaise, éclairs, and custard tart, but when Christmas arrives, Lisboans look for the seasonal Bolo-Rei (King Cake).