An ode to duality, the Fourth Ward’s Pass & Provision, helmed by two chefs, is really two restaurants operating at one site. More casual Provisions pleases vegetable eaters with au courant rustic fare created from farmers market-foraged ingredients. (The pizzas earn top marks.) Meanwhile, the more glamorous The Pass, a homage to gastronomy, serves painstakingly envisioned and poetically executed tasting menus for meat lovers and vegetarians alike. Choose the vegetable route and be wowed with nine courses, each of which pays homage to an ingredient that grows in the earth. A favorite? Sunchokes with herb-perfumed broccoli and crunchy puffed rice.