Sunday mornings should draw themselves out slowly, and if possible, the mid-afternoon should be noticed with surprise. The Must has that element of removal on its tucked away corner of downtown Los Angeles. Although it’s steeped in the tall buildings and stop-and-go movement of the area, you would never see or hear it from this new restaurant’s secluded patio. And that’s just what you need on a Sunday: a cool space of calm – with a heavy dose of comfort food, of course.
The Must’s brunch menu is a mix of Californian cuisine that has been reinvented with a Southern kick. The biscuit Benedict lets you choose between turkey, veggie, or pork sausage, which is then paired with poached eggs on biscuits and topped with country gravy. There’s also the large helping of fried chicken and corn meal hoecakes served with stewed apples, or the mc mustwich with scrambled eggs and fried green tomatoes. Whichever plate you choose, be sure to start with the trout toast – which is house-smoked and topped with radishes and pickled onions – and bottomless shook-up shandys.
Spend a few extra minutes sharing stories over empty plates and full stomachs. The comfortable atmosphere, which will hopefully also include a few happy dogs at their owners’ feet, shouldn't make you feel rushed.