My two-year old daughter was fascinated by the graffiti on the outer walls of Derry, Ireland. The walled city and surrounding areas have an eerie calm to them. My husband and another friend traveling with us found a local man to take them on an unofficial tour of the area. Four hours in the guide's private car offered a dark account of Northern Ireland's history. The day after we left, a bomb exploded outside of the hotel we stayed at; a reminder of ongoing political troubles.