When the cashier at the Guinness storehouse in Dublin found out I was going to Galway, her hometown, she suggested checking out the Crane Bar for traditional music. Based on the crowds that showed up, this is not a great secret. But it's still worth doing. Get there a little before 10, go upstairs and order a pint--you don't have to get Guinness, try the red beer on tap--and watch as the musicians assemble. On Saturday nights there's a crew of usual suspects, and these guys are legit. It's fun.