The Catbird Seat
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The Catbird Seat
It’s one of the hardest reservations to score in the country, but not just because of its diminutive size (22 seats in all) or limited days of operation (Wednesday to Sunday; dinner only). For one, Catbird Seat feels both intimate and exclusive: all seating is chef’s counter-style, thanks to a U-shaped counter that surrounds a central open kitchen. Then there’s the thrill of the unknown. Strategic Hospitality, the Nashville-based restaurant group started by homegrown entrepreneurs Ben and Max Goldberg, have hired a roster of notable chefs for extended stints, giving them carte blanche to create whatever inspires them during their tenure. Among them: Trevor Moran, an alumnus of Noma in Copenhagen. Since January 2016, Chicago-born chef Ryan Poli (another Noma vet who also trained at The French Laundry) has taken the reins, calling upon influences from his recent two-year stint working in kitchens around the world. A couple of recent hits: an umami-rich black truffle risotto made with sunflower seeds instead of rice, and noodles made with nori and spiked with zesty yuzu.
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