We took the side roads from Udaipur to Pushkar, intent to take in some Jain temples and countryside along the way. We happened upon a small village that was celebrating. All the men and boys were out on the street, made up with charcoal under their eyes and adorned with barrettes and ribbons. We did not see a single woman. The boys surrounded the car, asking to pose for photos. It was a happy and colorful detour, but one of the most memorable of our time in Rajasthan.