From the dark , silent streets, we entered the buzz of a wine bar, packed with friends sipping from bottles that lined the shelves-- my kind of library! We sat at the crowded counter, a square shaped bar, wherein a small charcoal grill was positioned center stage. Two cook's maneuvered skewered meats , fish, sausage , and veggies, their arms ablur. I was mesmerized. The grilled veggies and oysters ajio (well, bread dipped in the garlic infused bubbling olive oil !) were my favorite , while my husband ordered a second serving of sausages. What I loved most about our meal was the sense of vivacity of the place, a city alive and moving on.