On a small side street, near the Palace Side Hotel, a small traditional house hides a gastronomical gem - sukiyaki! Shuck your shoes, step up onto the tatami map, sit on a cushion around a low, circular table and point to the sukiyaki of your choice. Out comes a tray with a large steaming bowl of broth with noodles, meat, vegetables and an egg on top. Stir the egg into the soup with your chopsticks to cook it, and while you're waiting, nibble on the attendant bowls of (quail?) eggs, daikon pickle and hijiki or sip on a glass of barley tea. Oishi!