On a recent trip to Burma, I spent a few days in Kalaw, an old hill station that British colonial soldiers enjoyed retreating to for its mild(er) climate. Today tourists come here for mostly one thing: to trek. Guides take small groups into the hills, coated with tea plantations and dotted with teak villages. In one such place, a family invited us into their house for tea. They weren't as dour they look in this photo.