Cyclos are going extinct in the rapidly modernizing capital of Cambodia – motorbikes and SUVs are taking their place. Forty years ago these people-powered cruisers were ubiquitous throughout the city. Now the government reports that there may be as few as 600 cyclo drivers peddling through the traffic. The drivers are often older men, sinewy and muscled. It is not a desirable profession and daily earnings are meager. For a daily commute I prefer to hop on the back of a motorbike taxi – it’s quick and cheap, but once in a while, on the weekends, I’ll hail a cyclo, sit back and take in the city sedately.