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The Scent Of Green Papaya
We were lucky to catch Satay Brothers on their last weekend at the Atwater Market. Sure, they have a winter address during the rest of the year, but I can't imagine it being anywhere as buzzingly fun as their market location.
As always, we shared a green papaya salad. The pleasantly crunchy texture of this mound of noodle-like papaya shreds is heightened by a symphony of hot, acidic, and fresh flavors (that would be the chillies, lime, and coriander, respectively). This time though, instead of the usual quail egg soup, we ordered pork buns (delicious with their sweet hoisin sauce and tiny cucumber slices), and a satay chicken sandwich (also great with its Asian coleslaw and satay sauce).
For dessert, we got kueh salat, a gelatinous delicacy of a bright avocado green that is one layer custard over one layer sticky rice. A definite must!
And when I asked chef-owner Alex where I could get one of those nifty papaya shredders, he offered to pick one up for me in Chinatown. Nice guy that Satay Brother.