Underneath this fine smothering of kohlrabi is some of the most succulent pork cheek I’ve had. It was a great dish, one of several I had with two companions at Le Richer, a somewhat unassuming new-vibe restaurant in the fast-changing St-Denis neighborhood below Montmartre. And it cost as much as a mediocre duck salad in St. Germain.
We sat in the back room, with its artfully done raw plaster walls. Richer has a superb chef. It has a burrata that is out of this world. It also has no phone number, website, or reservations system. But the quality of food and the atmosphere make it worth playing a little play-by-ear!