It took only minutes after arrival for me to fall in (platonic) love with the riad's owner Jean Gabriel and his kind and helpful staff. Then, after checking in and getting a tour, I fell head over heels for Jean Gabriel's spectacular art collection (look for the whimsical paintings by the self-taught local artist known as Taloufate.) The house and its guest rooms are also works of art, very carefully painted and decorated in rich vibrant tones. The riad kindly upgraded my friend and me to the "Père Jego" 2-bedroom suite even though we had booked a smaller suite. The living room of our suite is shown in the right half of the photo; on the left is the fireplace in the riad’s living/dining room. We encountered unpleasant rainy weather during our visit, but came back to such a warm and welcoming atmosphere, and recovered from the damp November chill by toasting ourselves in front of the fireplace. I've stayed at many wonderful hotels and riads in Morocco but this is the only place I long to re-visit. When I find myself back in Essaouira someday, I would not stay anywhere else. To get the best rate, book directly on the riad’s website.