We slipped into Retour on a cold Scandinavian night. The restaurant, with its perfect white walls, black fixtures, and chalkboard bistro menus dotting the corners, was a delightful melange of Scandavanian design, French gastronomy and Danish hygge. It may sound like hyperbole, but I think everyone was having a grand time; but of course this was Denmark, a place where happy experiences abound in the everyday. Dining at Retour is like eating at a good friend’s house, you know, that beautiful friend who is a lovely hostess, whose house looks like it is from the glossy pages of an architectural digest, and whose food is delicious because, of course, she studied (in her free time) under a Michelin starred chef in Paris: You keep hoping to find a tiny dint in an otherwise perfect armor, just to make the world slightly more equitable, but, alas, there is none to be found.
We had been led to Retour by a helpful waiter at Madklubben, another restaurant in town. He spent fifteen minutes identifying restaurants - other than Noma and Ralae - for us to try. Retour fell under the category, “Good for the Price,” very important given the strength of the Danish kroner.
Like everyone else, we had a great time at Retour: the bistro food, pigeon and steak frites, was excellent and the wines were exceptional. This being our last eve in Copenhagen, we also worked our way through their catalogue of brandies. It was a fine climax to an already perfect Danish experience.