Don't let the pungent odor of shrimp paste scare you off. Nancy's Kitchen is one of the best places in Malaysia to try traditional Nyonya cuisine, a Chinese-Asian fusion rich in spices, noodles, and chillies. The setting is simple and unpretentious, but the food is totally memorable. Try the "top hat" appetizer (like a deconstructed spring role with fried dough in the shape of a top hat) along with the chicken and almond curry, Nancy's specialty. If you're brave, order the fish head curry, too—but beware of the shrimp paste.