A serpentine cab ride to the tip top of Rio de Janiero's Santa Teresa neighborhood, and you are delivered to an unassuming gate where you wonder if you might reach the stars. Upon entering, you descend several flights of stairs back down amidst the tree tops. Dinner is served on intimate patios atop stilts and is lit mostly by the lights of the city. We arrived early by Brazilian standards and had our pick of terraces. We chose the Varanda where we felt as though we were just barely tethered to the earth on a cozy banquette of benches hovering high over the city. Pièce de résistance: Palmito Fresco Assado (Hearts of palm served in a bamboo tile with a basil, cashew nut pesto).